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Info 2000 Ford Taurus Wagon V6 158,xxx miles Oil Light Flashing

usually it means you have low oil pressure. check the oil level first. make sure its not leaking or they underfilled it. low oil pressure will kill your engine.
 
If the oil level is correct and there are no major leaks then change the oil pressure switch.
 
If it started immediately after the oil change check the oil filter.
If the engine has oil and sounds normal with varying revs when cold and when warmed up ( no tapping or clatter) it could simple be the sensor.

Do you have the duratec or the vulcan?
 
I've had oil leaks after a change a few times over the years. So I have habit. Almost immediately after a change I check and note the dipstick level. Then I check again in 1 or 2 days, and after a week. If it is dropping, I go back to the garage and have them find and fix their leak.

This next is NOT your problem, but it's a tale of a once-in-50+ years odd error. Did my usual check of the level an hour or so after the change. Oil level was really odd and hard to tell, until I realized it was WAY high! And It looked brown, not clean and light yellow. Went back to garage and told them them check exactly WHICH "oil" they had drained to start. Sure enough, they had drained the TRANSAXLE fluid, not the engine oil. I was lucky I could drive it that way, and got it found and fixed right away.
 
BigSkyGuy406 said:
My 2000 Ford Taraus Wagon V6 has the oil light flickering.....whats up???.....just had oil change a week ago.
Click to expand...
As others said, check for leaks, make sure the oil is filled to the proper level with the proper viscosity. If so, you could try replacing the sensor, hopefully will solve the problem.

In a car that old you could also have a weak oil pump or even worn piston rings. Probably not though, since the problem started just after an oil change.
 
Is there any difference in when it flickers?

Do check the oil fill level first. Replace the oil pressure sensor (switch), it's now 20 years old and only costs ~$12. If that doesn't fix it, at least you ruled out the cheapest/quickest thing it could be. While replacing it, observe the connector to be sure it isn't contaminated or corroded and the wire is intact, not shorting out anywhere.

While replacing it an optional thing to do would be hook an oil pressure gauge up where it was to get a pressure reading. Since the oil pressure switch is just binary pass/fail switch, the gauge will give you a number to go on, though ultimately you'd want both the cold engine idle, minimum oil pressure and then the warmed up engine pressure.
 
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