1st Custom WC

[Dawgdoc]

Heres what Ive got so far. Am I missing something? Some little odds or ends? I will be cooling an 8800 GTX, and at this point in time Q6600, which will very shortly turn into an E8400 once Im done benching it.

I was all ready to do this about 3-4 months ago, and then someone convinced me to go subzero instead. Well...now Im back to finish up what I planned on starting. I am planning on making a custom WC loop that is as quiet as possible.

CPU : D-tek FuZion, Nozzle Accelerator Kit, Pro Mount Kit for FuZion

GPU : Swifttech MCW60-R + swifttech ramsinks

Rad : PA 120.3 + shroud

Fans : Antech tricool 120mm X 3. Can I use these fans? I got a killer deal at Microcenter $1.99 each and I loaded up with like a dozen If these are going to be too loud or some other issue I can get different ones without much of an issue.

Pump : Swifftech MCP655 vario

Tubing : Clearflex 1/2 ID, 3/4 OD - 25 feet. Yea more than I need, but its cheap and I always like extra pieces in case of mistakes, or future uses. Ill prob actually bump this up to 30-35 ft in case I plan on changing something on the fly later too.

Clamps : What do you think? "worm-clamps" or some of the fancy plastic clamp clips I see at petras, jab-tech, sidewinder, etc...?

Res or T-line or Fill-port: Which one and why? Im not really sure what would be easiest? One of those DD fill-ports looks about as simple and easy as possible and Im leaning towards that.

Do I need any special additives for the liquid? Any special cleaners for the parts when they arrive new?

Mounting the rad......Im having trouble visualizing this. I have one of those HUGE rocketfish cases from BB that I was planning to use, so I was going to mount the rad INSIDE of the case. I know I will need to cut some holes in the top to mod the case, and Im ok with that. If I mount INSIDE the case do I still need a shroud? How will I mount the rad? Just rig it with some screws, or nuts/bolts, or does it come with mounting equipment?

Do I need any different/extra nozzles for the rad?

Also, do I lose any cooling capacity by mounting the rad inside of the case as opposed to outside? How much louder would it be mounted outside of the case?

Its alot of questions I know But Id really appreciate any input and thx in advance!

 

[WoodButcher]

I'll give you one answer I haven't time for all now. The shroudis not meant to aid in mounting, it improves airflow by moving the fan away from the rad, eliminates the dead spot behind the hub of the motor. I have a RF in the other room and will measure to see if the shoud/ rad/ fan will fit above the mobo. The shroud adds 1" to the thickness. You will want a grill unless your cutting is very accurate and neat. Res and T-line both, you have the room and they both help to bleed and drain. Fillport for the res not the T-line, the t you use to drain as well so it's in the loop as low as possible and caps off but not attached, as high as possible 17" case, 16" t-line.

 

[Tim]

I have a MCR-320 rad mounted in the top of my rocketfish and I have a good 2 inches (just eyeballing it from a picture, I'm at work right now) room to spare from the bottom of the fans to the MB. I'll also measure when I get home. I don't think it will be a problem fitting judgeing from my case.

 

[aigomorla]

Need time to answer these questions.

Sorry im at work and got a lot of things piled up. I promise to get to it when i have some time free'd

 

[Dawgdoc]

TY everyone for the input so far.

A few minor changes from above.

I actually went with Tygon 7/16 ID 5/8 OD tubing. I was told the 7/16 ID will make for a significantly tighter fit with less chance of leaking, and that I should just warm it up to make it more pliable.

I purchased both a T-line, DD fillport, and a swifttech micro-res so I can put together whatever combo I want.

As far as additives, I went with Petras PT-Nuke. I was told that was all I needed.

Any of the other questions answered or addl info appreciated!

 

[aigomorla]

1. the 7/16 makes a great seal. However next time check out the masterkleer line. You can use zipties as clamps if your using this type of tubing.

2. You need to change the barbs out on the MCW60, the Radiator, and the Res. 6 barbs total. The PA takes a special barb made only by EK and Bitspower. Its a G3/8 Fitting barb and not the standard G1/4. Make sure you get the correct one. The rest will take G1/4.

3. The Tline is used as a drain line or a inline feed for your pump. Place the T-line right b4 the inlet of the pump to help you bleed faster.

4. Make sure you dont overdue it on the PT nuke. 2-3 Drops AT MOST.


If you need links to the barb i'll pick them out for you later. However i think derwen and the others till pick them out b4 i will.

Basically look at the EK for the PA, DD FatBoy's for the rest. Or if you want compression fittings, koolance 13mm fittings arent so bad either. The Barbs by D-tek is also highly recomended.

If i think of more things i'll post it also.

Lastly you should check out my sticky for general info if you havent already. It has every possible question a newbie can ask in a general aspect.

 

[NicColt]

Originally posted by: Dawgdoc
Am I missing something?

Yes, PIC's

 

[Dawgdoc]

TY! I am going to read your full n00b WC thread from start to finish this evening.

If you could possibly link the exact barbs I would need that you mention I would greatly appreciate it, since I am not completely clear which ones you are referring to and they sound somewhat specific. I did NOT purchase any barbs, so I will order this evening and get fast shipping so I have them with the rest of the stuff arriving thurs/fri.

TYVM!!!

 

[Dawgdoc]

Also, some people have mentioned to me that I will lose some cooling capacity by mounting the rad inside of the case. Is this true? If so, is it a significant loss of cooling potential?

 

[aigomorla]

you need 4 of these:

For he GPU block and also reservoir. If you get a swiftech northbridge block, you'll need another pair. These are prices for EACH, so get 4.

http://www.dangerden.com/store...ctid=318&cat=34&page=1

And for your radiator:
http://www.jab-tech.com/EK-Wat...ting-G3-8-pr-4084.html

You need 2 of those.

There is better solutions, however its very complicated using a G3/8 coupler and reducer and adding DD fatboys. However the performance difference is almost non existant unless your running a really restrictive loop.

 

[Dawgdoc]

TY Aigomorla

Anyplace else other than DD carry the Fatboys? Id like to try to order both fittings from the same place but having trouble finding the FBs. Will they say DD Fatboys, or will they just say DD G1/4?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Dawgdoc
TY Aigomorla

Anyplace else other than DD carry the Fatboys? Id like to try to order both fittings from the same place but having trouble finding the FBs. Will they say DD Fatboys, or will they just say DD G1/4?

get the bitspower then.

Its the OEM of DD Fatboy.

http://www.performance-pcs.com..._393&products_id=22621


The problem now lies in you cant find G3/8 barbs.

:T


The good thing about jab-tech and shoppts, which carries the G3/8 EK is that they both offer USPS shipping. So it wont cost you a leg and an arm.


Also use the locations wisely.

Shoppts.com = Cali
Jab-tech = Texas
Performance-pcs = Florida.

Based on your location, each store will have different shipping estimates.

 

[Dawgdoc]

Is this the same DD FB as you posted earlier?

http://www.jab-tech.com/Danger...tings-1-2-pr-3802.html

If so, I can get all from Jab-tech (both the DD-FBs as well as the EK-barbs for the PA120.3.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Dawgdoc
Is this the same DD FB as you posted earlier?

http://www.jab-tech.com/Danger...tings-1-2-pr-3802.html

If so, I can get all from Jab-tech (both the DD-FBs as well as the EK-barbs for the PA120.3.

no... trust me i would of linked them to you.

The DD FB are new barbs which martin tested to have the greatest performance.

However its not that big. IF your having a hard time finding them, grab the d-tek barbs instead then.


Also if your shopping at jab-tech, tell him aigo sent ya on the notes. John's a friend of mine.

 

[Dawgdoc]

I was cruising Martins Liquid Lab last night and actually read the PA 120.3 pressure drop test where he discussed them.....

Well, maybe read is not the correct word since I missed the importance of those barbs hehehe.....Skimmed lets say.

Yes I am going to purchase the barbs you linked me from Jab-tech. Ill mention that you sent me

Ill just order the DD FBs from DD website. If the barbs are that impt Ill just get em. I allready am $500 in the hole for the whole setup so whats an extra $10 in shipping. Nothing really. I am sure the importance of why these are so impt will become more evident to me when I actually assemble the loop. I would just hate to get everything in before the weekend, and have to postpone getting it all set up for a few $2 barbs hehe.

Thx again!!! This is some serious activity here in this forum, and I appreciate all of the input.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Dawgdoc
I was cruising Martins Liquid Lab last night and actually read the PA 120.3 pressure drop test where he discussed them.....

Well, maybe read is not the correct word since I missed the importance of those barbs hehehe.....Skimmed lets say.

Yes I am going to purchase the barbs you linked me from Jab-tech. Ill mention that you sent me

Ill just order the DD FBs from DD website. If the barbs are that impt Ill just get em. I allready am $500 in the hole for the whole setup so whats an extra $10 in shipping. Nothing really. I am sure the importance of why these are so impt will become more evident to me when I actually assemble the loop. I would just hate to get everything in before the weekend, and have to postpone getting it all set up for a few $2 barbs hehe.

Thx again!!! This is some serious activity here in this forum, and I appreciate all of the input.

use USPS Shipping and NOT FEX EX!

Since the barbs are small, they will do USPS to save you a GRIP on shipping.

Fedex or UPS is only worth it if your box is medium size.


Anyhow, just get the d-tek barbs then, seriously you wont see the difference. Water is not that sensitive were a few extra bit of flow is going to give you substaintal performance gain.

Here buy them at petras. Shipping is only 1.57 for first class USPS. Im cali resident so minus the tax if it doesnt apply to you.

D-Tek High-Flow Fitting (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)
[remove] $2.30 Yes $4.60

Subtotal: $4.60
Shipping: $1.57
Tax: $0.38
Total: $6.55


Also i dont know how those tricools will perform on the PA. I dont know the static pressure value it hs. Instead of that ugly shroud, i recomend the zalman F3's or the Scythe Ultra Kaze's on sale @ jab-tech. Im getting the best results right now from the scythe expecially @ 1500rpms on my PA120.3

Oh you might need mounting hardware for the PA, as non is supplied. The screw thickness for the (scythe ultra kaze 38mm) is Machine Zinc/Brass screw M6 1 3/4 should be okey if your mounting case fan rad. But always becareful and check. The last thing you want to do is puncture the PA.

Otherwise its M6 1 1/2 for 25mm fans.

Goto a hardware store for this.


If your getting the scythe make sure you pick up a fan controler for it. Its VERY loud at full blast, plus the PA wouldnt need that much air flow.

Also i dont really like shrouds. :X They make the entire unit ugly.

The PA120.3 comes with something that resembles a shroud. Only its made out of neoprene.

 

[Dawgdoc]

So these would be good to mount the fans on the PA 120.3, but I will need some other screws to mount the PA to the case such as the ones you have mentioned above?

http://www.petrastechshop.com/1blstthfansc.html

Yes I allready have a fan controller too

http://www.petrastechshop.com/5surhexfansp1.html

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: Dawgdoc
So these would be good to mount the fans on the PA 120.3, but I will need some other screws to mount the PA to the case such as the ones you have mentioned above?

http://www.petrastechshop.com/1blstthfansc.html

Yes I allready have a fan controller too

http://www.petrastechshop.com/5surhexfansp1.html

those will fit for 25mm.

However if your getting the scythes i recomended you need to get ones a bit longer. The scythe fans are 38mm.

*scratches head... wait i thought it was 1.5 inch* Bah i dont second guess alex. Meaning he's probably correct.

 

[DerwenArtos12]

1.25" should work just fine on the rads. I use 1.5 for double isolating fans to cases and they're just long enough.

Best Fans for Radiators IMHOordered by static pressure)
Delta TFB1212GHE
San Ace(duh)
Scythe Ultra Kaze 2K
Zalman ZM-F3
Scythe S-Flex
Yate Loon

 

[WoodButcher]

Before you cut the top Check w/ the mobo in place that the rad and fans clear everything. I think the whole thing including the shroud will fit if your off center to the left, w/ no shroud it fits but if you add the 40 mm for the shoud you need to clear the mobo by moving to the left side and there is a strut and the drive bay,,,,,

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Before you cut the top Check w/ the mobo in place that the rad and fans clear everything. I think the whole thing including the shroud will fit if your off center to the left, w/ no shroud it fits but if you add the 40 mm for the shoud you need to clear the mobo by moving to the left side and there is a strut and the drive bay,,,,,

LOL... pictures peak 10000 words.

This is what happens when your careless:
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0838.jpg


Yes messure twice cut once. It should really look like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0835.jpg

 

[Dawgdoc]

I was not planning on using a shroud since I am mounting inside of the case.

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: aigomorla

LOL... pictures peak 10000 words.

This is what happens when your careless:
http://i125.photobucket.com/al...aigomorla/IMG_0838.jpg

Haha, can we say,,,, oops! Been there, done that. More times and in more ways than I can remember.
Dawgdoc, cool, no shroud, mount the fans and check w/ mobo in place anyway, it will save you the oops. I thought you already had bought it. BTW, the TC shroud isn't like the swiftech radbox, it is not meant to be used for external mounting or a mounting aid in any way, it is strictly an airflow performance thing. Fans directly on the TC rad are 10 mm off the core to start with, adding 40 more decreases the dead spot or the small circle of fins in the core that get little to no air because of the size of the fan hub. If you already had it I would see if it will fit, every little bit helps.

 

[Dawgdoc]

Ok guys I will be assembling everything this weekend. 99% of everything arrived yesterday, and my DD FBs and the G 3/8 EK barbs will be arriving today. I also bought a pair of D-tek high flow barbs just for good measure too to try different things

I cleaned up the res and rad last night. Opened up the FuZion and removed any slag that was there (none really they must have fixed it!!) and would have put together a test loop except I needed the above noted barbs still.

So on to my questions.....

1. Do I need to take apart my MCW-60 to look for slag as well?

2. Does it matter if I mount my rad on the bottom or top? I was told that on the bottom I might gain some better temps since the air is cooler down there and all of the hot case air probobly rises. Plus it will be easier. No screws, just some velcro and it will hold

3. How to mount the PA 120.3? I do not see any mounting holes? All I see are fan mount holes. I assume you use 1 side for fans, and on the opposite side use the fan mounting holes for mounting?

4. If I mount on the bottom, there are allready fan space areas for air flow but it isnt completely open, there are little holes in a 120mm fan area. Will that be ok or will I need more airflow and should cut that stuff out? Also, there are only spaces for 2 fans instead of 3, so I will prob need to cut a space for the 3rd fan I assume?

5. Does it really matter which way I point my fans on the rad? On 1 hand pulling fresh air into the case will hopefully chill the rad more, but then the warmed air from the rad will be inside of the case. OTOH blowing the hot air out of the case will get it out of the case, but if blown through the rad will obviously diminish its cooling capacity.

Thx guys!

 

[Tim]

Been following this, Good luck with everything. Just listen to what these guys tell you and it will all work just fine! Be sure to take some pics once you have it set up so we can look