1997 Altima: Cuts off when idling

[xSauronx]

Car info

1997 Nissan Altima GLE (automatic), 128K miles, 2.4-liter twin-cam 4-cylinder.

Problems started about 2 months ago, where randomly when idling the car would cut off. Did this once every couple of weeks and I didnt think much of it.

Now not only does it do this (about every other day) but when accelerating (like, 3rd gear i think) usually between 40 and 60mph, it stutters...well more like it has a hiccup or two, the rpms fall and then jump, maybe fall again and then it keeps going just fine.

no noises during any of this, it just hiccups and keeps on going.

Any ideas what it might be? Im not a car guy, but I downloaded the parts manual for the car a while back so if theres something I can try tinkering with to troubleshoot that wont be much trouble, Im up for any suggestions. Else Ill be taking it to a mechanic within the next week or so.

Thanks!

 

[Vette73]

Is the engine light on?


When was the last time you changed the fuel filter, PCV valve, plugs, cap + rotor, plug wires, etc...?

If you have not done that then start with basic maintaince first. That fixs most issues like this. If you do that and still have a problem then write back.

 

[nakedfrog]

First thing I'd do is pull out a spark plug or two and have a look. Or if you have no idea when they were last changed and don't feel up to the job, bring it in for a tune-up (which should include the items mentioned above, and hopefully be under $100).

 

[exdeath]

Sounds like ignition missing. Take it to a parts place like Checker or Autozone and see if they can pull any helpful codes and hook up a fuel pressure gauge while it's stumbling during idle, and go from there. Both these can be done very quickly in the parking lot in less than 5 minutes and they will be more than eager to help you diagnose so they can sell you stuff (unless the fuel test requires an inline banjo fitting in which case don't bother).

Codes *might* help because there is a distinct difference between an ignition misfire (no coil collapse confirmation from the ignition module) and cylinder misfire (inadequate fuel causing improper power balance), but it's hard to say if you'll be able to get anything meaningful as the mid 90s was a transition period in onboard diagnostic technology and computer capabilities vary widely.

Depending on your climate, 128k miles is more than enough for factory plug wires to rot out.

 

[xSauronx]

engine light isnt on
im not the original owner, forgot to mention that. all ive done to the car was had cv joints replaced, a fuel line replaced (it split) and an oil change. i think i added some fuel injector cleaner or something maybe.

i just started to check the spark plugs: every one has oil around it. one has *a lot* of oil. i know this is bad, but is is kinda bad, pretty bad or catastrophically bad? i guess that could easily be whats causing the problem

my oil is a little low...but im not blowing smoke and it has never smelled like i was burning oil.

 

[Vette73]

^

based on what you said do what I listed above in my first post but also add in a new valve cover gasket set.

I am 99% sure that will fix your problems.

 

[xSauronx]

Originally posted by: Marlin1975
^

based on what you said do what I listed above in my first post but also add in a new valve cover gasket set.

I am 99% sure that will fix your problems.

well i can change spark plugs...eh thats about it. ive never changed a fuel filter...is it a pain in the ass? im due an oil change as it is, and i *hate* changing my own oil.

no idea what a pcv valve is, cap/rotor, i know what the wires are...but ive never done anything with any of it. if its easy, im willing to try....as long as i cant ruin anything doing it.

also, never changed a valve cover gasket. ive had one changed before, cost like 85 bucks on another car i had. maybe a little less, its been a while so i dont remember.

 

[exdeath]

Are you talking about oil on the plugs like tar like residue fouling inside the electrode (combustion chamber side) or like fresh oil on the outside around the insulator where the plug wires go? If it's the latter, then it's the 4 little rubber grommets that seals those tubes off from oil in the head. Take a peek down the spark plug tubes with a flask light and see what you can see.

If you can get it done for $85 it sounds like that would be the best path for you. Taking the valve cover off and replacing the seals and gasket is not a difficult job at all, but you might have to remove a lot of unrelated things (intake manifold, motor mounts, etc) to gain enough clearance to remove the valve cover.

 

[xSauronx]

Originally posted by: exdeath
Are you talking about oil on the plugs like tar like residue fouling inside the electrode (combustion chamber side) or like fresh oil on the outside around the insulator where the plug wires go? If it's the latter, then it's the 4 little rubber grommets that seals those tubes off from oil in the head. Take a peek down the spark plug tubes with a flask light and see what you can see.

If you can get it done for $85 it sounds like that would be the best path for you. Taking the valve cover off and replacing the seals and gasket is not a difficult job at all, but you might have to remove a lot of unrelated things (intake manifold, motor mounts, etc) to gain enough clearance to remove the valve cover.

the spark plug tubes have oil in them. 3 just have a little oil around the plug, but its enough to hear it slosh when i put the wire back in. the other cylinder has enough oil to get to the top of the spark plug.

ill prolly take it to a mechanic, it would take me all day to do any of this shit since ive never done it, and i dont know anyone who works on cars that could help me out of i screwed something up.

 

[lsd]

You don't need to take it to a mechanic to r/r the valve cover seals. Oil in the plug tubes can cause your hesitation problem.
Instead of replacing the seals you can just remove them and clean with hot water and soap. The seals are made out of rubber and can be cleaned. Clean the head and valve cover mating surfaces carefully with a rag and brake cleaner and reinstall the seals with red rtv on the bottom. Do not over torque the vlv cover nuts. I've had success on a number of nissan engines just doing that. If it doesn't work then r/r the seals, you're only out a few dollars for the rtv.