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1800Xp+ WHAT CAN IT GET TO?

KH85

KH85

Senior member
at the moment my 1800XP+ is running at 1.73Ghz can i take it anymore? the FSB is curently at 150 1:1 so ram is at 150 as well (=300Mhz) this ram can take 333 but i dont think that the 1800 can take 166FSH without it being unlocked......

i have an MSI nForce board.
1.25 Gig of Nanya ram (333mhz)
AMD Athlon 1800Xp

could it go any further?

Thnx
Couger
 
If the CPU's a Tbred, then it should easily hit 1800MHz or even much higher.

The limiting factor could be your RAM though.
 
gentlemen, you mean tBRED!!!!!

damn. Tbird was the thunderbird core which maxed out at 1.4ghz. Then they switched to palomino and the whole athlon xp thing.


well if you get to take a look at the chip, see if the core is square or rectangular, and if the diodes are on top or underneath.

or you can use WCPUID.exe and tell us the steppings and all that crap and we can figure it out 🙂
 
*nod* indeed...

i keep mis-typing as my two comps consist of a tbred and a tbird

so what's the deal with unlocking the multiplier on the thoroughbred? do i need to do so if i intend to play with the multiplier. and if so, i'm looking for a guide on what to do
 
is this 1800 and up?

i've got a tbred 2000 that doesn't seem to like oc'ing much... even a fsb of 140 locks windows up... the ram is crucial 2700 and i'm runing with a nice enermax ps... mobo is gigabyte ga-7vaxp, not the best for overclocking due to lack of divider, but is 140 an unrealistic fsb for pci/agp bus at 35/68 ?
 
If urs is a Tb'a. 1.73ghz sound right, tb'a don't go too high.
If urs is a tb'b, is ur mobo holding u back. I have build system for people base on 5 diff nf2 board and the one from MSI is the worst ocer.
 
ok, first order of business 🙂)) is unlocking. On Nforce2 boards, because of the way the socket is wired or something, it automatically is 'unlocked' because it overlooks the lock/unlock pins altogether. If your motherboard isnt allowing a multiplier change, then all you have to do is connect the LAST bridge on I believe its L3 or something.

My TbredA 1800+ has run at 1.9ghz before, fairly stable but locked up every once in a while. Now im running it at 1837mhz @ 216*8.5 on a Chaintech 7NJS with Corsair 3200c2. So the A's will max out between 1.8 and 1.9 depending on the voltage youre putting through it, and the B's will break 2ghz.

Put the multiplier to something safe (if thats a B, 'safe' can mean 9.5 or 10) and max out your bus, then start upping the multiplier once you unlock.
 
last bridge of the L3?

i'm running on a via-based gigabyte ga-7vaxp...


i tried googling for oc guies but finding something for tbred and not tbird was difficult
 
right ok.


youre looking at the top of your cpu. There are pairs of dots that look like this-

. : : : : these are referred to as 'cut' or 'unbridged'

They are grouped in diff. groups. One group you will see says 'L3'

What you have to do is CLOSE the last gap (far right) by using some conductive liquid, like from a rear window defogger repair kit (can be found at NAPA Auto)

When unlocking the Palo's, you had to fill the pits in between each pin and then draw over them with the conductive paint.

But since youre only doing the last one, you can just draw around the hole like so:

. : : : :> thats the best representation i can do, but you just get them connected together without connecting anything else.


im sure there are better explanations out there, keep looking
 
i know how to do it, as i did the pencil trick on my tbird, but i didn't know which pair was "LAST"

thx for the "around the hole" tip though...

what about palaminos (out of curiousity)

same deal for these?
 
yea the pencil trick doesnt work anymore. now AMD laser cuts the bridges, and theres a copper sheet below the laser pits that, any electrical signal that touches it goes to ground. so youve gotta fill the pits with superglue, even them off, then use the conductive paint to go over the bridges.


by the way, i edited my diagram of the CLOSED bridge. stupid board thought it was a smiley emoticon. so i used a carat instead 🙂



So go get some of that conductive crap at NAPA, then just go around the LAST L3 hole on the RIGHT.
 
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