151 Rum for a Heat Pipe Fluid
- Thread starter wwswimming
- Start date
151 is supposed to heat up your pipes OP. 
H2O is probably the best liquid for heat transfer on this planet, for our use=CPU & VGA cooling.
Google latent heat and read. Consider that the H2O could be under a vacuum, reducing it's boiling temperature.
...Galvanized
H2O is probably the best liquid for heat transfer on this planet, for our use=CPU & VGA cooling.
Google latent heat and read. Consider that the H2O could be under a vacuum, reducing it's boiling temperature.
...Galvanized
fatpat268
Diamond Member
- Jan 14, 2006
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Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
151 is supposed to heat up your pipes OP.
H2O is probably the best liquid for heat transfer on this planet, for our use=CPU & VGA cooling.
Google latent heat and read. Consider that the H2O could be under a vacuum, reducing it's boiling temperature.
...Galvanized
Wouldn't a form of alcohol, whether it's isopropyl, methanol, or ethanol, be efficient for heatpipes?
They are certainly used, but the properties of water make it a better heat pipe fluid.Originally posted by: fatpat268
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
151 is supposed to heat up your pipes OP.
H2O is probably the best liquid for heat transfer on this planet, for our use=CPU & VGA cooling.
Google latent heat and read. Consider that the H2O could be under a vacuum, reducing it's boiling temperature.
...Galvanized
Wouldn't a form of alcohol, whether it's isopropyl, methanol, or ethanol, be efficient for heatpipes?
The fluid you use is ultimately determined by the temperatures you plan on working at.
They use ammonia in the permafrost heatpipes on the alaskan pipeline. The heat is pulled from ground (when it starts to warm up) and released into the atmosphere to keep the ground frozen.
Using water at CPU temps in a heatpipe (with it vacuumed of course), all liquid would turn into gas (which would not a be a heatpipe anymore). Then to compensate, the pressure has to very very large in order to turn the gas back into liquid. This is the major reason why you don't use water, you would need the pipe to withstand somewhere on the scale of 1.3 Kpsi (I think it's actually more)
Freon in heatpipes works around 200 to 300 psi ( I know this from experiance)
I wish I had my thermo book so I could give you more accurate numbers.
In short, it depends on your range of temperature you plan on working in so you can determine you fluid properties (not to mention what is the cheapest, epa friendly, etc).
They use ammonia in the permafrost heatpipes on the alaskan pipeline. The heat is pulled from ground (when it starts to warm up) and released into the atmosphere to keep the ground frozen.
Using water at CPU temps in a heatpipe (with it vacuumed of course), all liquid would turn into gas (which would not a be a heatpipe anymore). Then to compensate, the pressure has to very very large in order to turn the gas back into liquid. This is the major reason why you don't use water, you would need the pipe to withstand somewhere on the scale of 1.3 Kpsi (I think it's actually more)
Freon in heatpipes works around 200 to 300 psi ( I know this from experiance)
I wish I had my thermo book so I could give you more accurate numbers.
In short, it depends on your range of temperature you plan on working in so you can determine you fluid properties (not to mention what is the cheapest, epa friendly, etc).
while water can absorbe a good ammount of energy before rasing its temp, it also has very high surface tension so pure H20 is actually kind of crappy as a heat transfer medium. Note there are addtives that help this ( not glycerol type coolant. thats worse than water ). Im sure there are other liquids that transfer heat better.
Anyone remember this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drinking_bird
Values of heat of vaporization for ethyl alcohol and water:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/phase.html
Heat of Vaporization Ethyl Alcohol: 854,000 J/kg
Heat of Vaporization Water: 2,256,000 J/kg
Boiling Point Ethyl Alcohol: 78 degrees C
Boling Point Water: 100 degrees C
Cant find the "rate of vaporization depending on temperature, ambient pressure and exposed surface area" anywhere online, and to my knowledge it is not related to "vapor pressure depending on temperature" of the substance by any formula.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drinking_bird
Values of heat of vaporization for ethyl alcohol and water:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/tables/phase.html
Heat of Vaporization Ethyl Alcohol: 854,000 J/kg
Heat of Vaporization Water: 2,256,000 J/kg
Boiling Point Ethyl Alcohol: 78 degrees C
Boling Point Water: 100 degrees C
Cant find the "rate of vaporization depending on temperature, ambient pressure and exposed surface area" anywhere online, and to my knowledge it is not related to "vapor pressure depending on temperature" of the substance by any formula.
Here's another link to play with http://www.cheresources.com/htpipes.shtml
The primary agent is probably water but could be mixed with ethyl alcohol or acetone.
There could even be a mix with silver or copper super dust FAIK. It will remain a secret.
I bet it varies quite a bit for provider to provider.
Don't analyze.............utilyze
...Galvanized
The primary agent is probably water but could be mixed with ethyl alcohol or acetone.
There could even be a mix with silver or copper super dust FAIK. It will remain a secret.
I bet it varies quite a bit for provider to provider.
Don't analyze.............utilyze
...Galvanized
I didn't say you couldn't. To me, it would be more complicated. Looking at what I wrote earlier definately doesn't explain what I was trying to say (good thing I won't ever teach). I built a heatpipe this past semester out of an airhammer (copper tupe used to absorb sudden pressure changes in household water pipes), a t-joint and copper block. The T-joint is where we added a pressure gauge. Using a standalone R-134a adapter kit, we vacuumed out the pipe (actually, we mechanics do it for us) and then we filled it using a cheap fill-kit from walmart. For us, we decide on R-134a which seemed easier than trying to get water into an already vacuumed tube. It was great project and we got an A, because we were so thorough. Another reason we worked with freon is because of the range the fluid, (although we ended up keeping a fixed temperature on one end, and a changing the amount of fluid on different runs)
Sorry about earlier, I'll try again. In heatpipe, you have a fixed volume. You vacuum it out. Then you add enough working fluid so that it works in the saturated liquid-vapor region on your T-v diagram. As you increase the energy (temperature) of you control volume, the pressure will increase since more of your working fluid is turning into vapor. If you are still adding energy, at one point all your fluid turns into vapor (not to mention are really excited), this is point at which it stops working as a heatpipe. All the while the energy was added the temperature went up as did the pressure.
Like I said, I wish I had my thermo book to give you better numbers.
Might be of interest http://www.benchtest.com/heat_pipe1.html
This may not be up to the standards of up & coming wanna be engineers but it's
good enough for me
EDIT: Be sure and read all three pages.
...Galvanized
This may not be up to the standards of up & coming wanna be engineers but it's
good enough for me
EDIT: Be sure and read all three pages.
...Galvanized
as long as the solder you use doesn't have lead or cadmium.
anyway, thanks everybody for the info.
Originally posted by: GalvanizedYankee
Might be of interest http://www.benchtest.com/heat_pipe1.html
This may not be up to the standards of up & coming wanna be engineers but it's
good enough for me
EDIT: Be sure and read all three pages.
...Galvanized
that's an AWESOME link !
i spent about 8 years working at an corporate R&D facility with about 500 engineers. not too many of them could design and build a simple fixture like that page shows.
R-134A is a piss-poor fluid for heat pipes. It has to be under tremendous pressure to liquify in the pipe=not good. With a pipe of that diameter, the performance shown on the page is pathetic.
Originally posted by: Lucent
R-134A is a piss-poor fluid for heat pipes. It has to be under tremendous pressure to liquify in the pipe=not good. With a pipe of that diameter, the performance shown on the page is pathetic.
OK smart Alice!! Post something better or STFU. Where is your work? Do you realize that work was done in 12/00 and the guy put it out there in detail. He sure did, so some puke can come along and be critical.
You will fit right in with the other neffing members we have here.
...Galvanized
Originally posted by: Lucent
R-134A is a piss-poor fluid for heat pipes. It has to be under tremendous pressure to liquify in the pipe=not good. With a pipe of that diameter, the performance shown on the page is pathetic.
When we were doing our project, Our R-134a was under 200 psi at room temperature and only got up to 235 when heated up. We used a TEC (peltier) as a heat source. We were trying to keep a soda on the other side of the TEC cool.
And Galvanized, we used that benchtest.com as one of our references. It's where we got the idea for the R-134a adapter.
My gf, who just graduated with her mechanical engineer degree was in the same class. I built my silver water block (silver round coin in a copper block, it turned out awsome) and her group built the test setup for it. They ran the same test with the swiftect apogee, and mine performed better..yay. However, since we were testing it right up til the end of the semester, and I started a new internship right away, I haven't had the chance to put it in my pc.
Parkre, Well I never did get around to thinning a silver dollar to 1.5mm so it could
be sandwiched between chip & HS...Some day maybe. *shrugs*
From my automotive repair days, I do know that R-12 uses less head pressure, smaller
condenser/evaporator and provides better cooling at the registers. Considered an unfriendly gas now, it did offer better performance.
...Galvanized
be sandwiched between chip & HS...Some day maybe. *shrugs*
From my automotive repair days, I do know that R-12 uses less head pressure, smaller
condenser/evaporator and provides better cooling at the registers. Considered an unfriendly gas now, it did offer better performance.
...Galvanized
Our heat pipe experiment was pretty crude, no fins, but it did the job well. I looked up whether or not r-134a was safe after I got some in my eye....it's perfectly safe according to the EPA website.
My silver coin waterblock definately turned heads during their presentation (my group did not want to do it). If I could build it all over again, I wouldn't have wasted time on the copper block and just embedded the sliver round right into the polycarbonate (not regular plexiglass.
The raw materials
silver round $11
Copper block 6
Polycarbonate 1~1.5
screws and barbs $3
Turned out way cheaper than any silver water block I've seen.
And braggin rights, it's right there on my resume and probably got me this internship right now.
My silver coin waterblock definately turned heads during their presentation (my group did not want to do it). If I could build it all over again, I wouldn't have wasted time on the copper block and just embedded the sliver round right into the polycarbonate (not regular plexiglass.
The raw materials
silver round $11
Copper block 6
Polycarbonate 1~1.5
screws and barbs $3
Turned out way cheaper than any silver water block I've seen.
And braggin rights, it's right there on my resume and probably got me this internship right now.
Eye safety dude!! Foam ear plugs are a real plus. Besides protecting hearing, they aid
concentration...Big time.
In the olden days, a suction hose off a propane torch was used to locate R-12 leaks.
The flame would change color, green iirc, when the R-12 hit the open flame. Safe??
When R-12 hits open flame it produces phosgene gas. :Q
The silver coin thread was fun, glad it all worked out well.
...Galvanized
concentration...Big time.
In the olden days, a suction hose off a propane torch was used to locate R-12 leaks.
The flame would change color, green iirc, when the R-12 hit the open flame. Safe??
When R-12 hits open flame it produces phosgene gas. :Q
The silver coin thread was fun, glad it all worked out well.
...Galvanized
Originally posted by: Parkre
Originally posted by: Lucent
R-134A is a piss-poor fluid for heat pipes. It has to be under tremendous pressure to liquify in the pipe=not good. With a pipe of that diameter, the performance shown on the page is pathetic.
When we were doing our project, Our R-134a was under 200 psi at room temperature and only got up to 235 when heated up. We used a TEC (peltier) as a heat source. We were trying to keep a soda on the other side of the TEC cool.
And Galvanized, we used that benchtest.com as one of our references. It's where we got the idea for the R-134a adapter.
My gf, who just graduated with her mechanical engineer degree was in the same class. I built my silver water block (silver round coin in a copper block, it turned out awsome) and her group built the test setup for it. They ran the same test with the swiftect apogee, and mine performed better..yay. However, since we were testing it right up til the end of the semester, and I started a new internship right away, I haven't had the chance to put it in my pc.
Were you at the desert when you tested your heatpipe? How much "under 200psi" at "room temperature" did you get?
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