>100mm + no IS/VR + no tripod = fail?

andylawcc

Lifer
Mar 9, 2000
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is it me? but I just can't get a clear image when zooming beyond the 100mm range and keep my hand steady. Camera = Olympus e-410.
 

jpeyton

Moderator in SFF, Notebooks, Pre-Built/Barebones
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Aug 23, 2003
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Keep your shutter speed at least 1/x second, where x is your focal length; preferably even faster, if your lighting allows for it. Or use your flash at slower shutter speeds.
 

Jawo

Diamond Member
Jun 15, 2005
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Telephotos really depend on more than just skill in general. If its a hazy day ( or pollution in a city) it will make you pictures unsharp. Other atmospheric conditions can ruin shots as well.

There is a reason why people pay $$$ for telephoto IS/VR...it works great! Ironically, using a heavier camera helps you to balance the uneven weight that a long lens adds. The 70-300 IS USM was the first lens I purchased, and I find the IS especially useful in low light.
 

ElFenix

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Mar 20, 2000
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Originally posted by: jpeyton
Keep your shutter speed at least 1/x second, where x is your focal length; preferably even faster, if your lighting allows for it. Or use your flash at slower shutter speeds.

his needs to be 1/2xfocal because of the crop of the sensor.



also, make sure you're standing right. both feet on the ground, right hand on the grip on the right, left hand under the lens barrel, elbows in on your sides, and the camera pressed firmly against your head. then practice holding it steady. proper technique can give you a stop or two.
 

andylawcc

Lifer
Mar 9, 2000
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YES! went to Shutter Speeding priority mode, made it faster, but image was too dark, crank up ISO till 800 (something I never dare to do in my previous P&Ss), viola! :) exp ++ lvl 2.
 

jpeyton

Moderator in SFF, Notebooks, Pre-Built/Barebones
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Aug 23, 2003
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Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: jpeyton
Keep your shutter speed at least 1/x second, where x is your focal length; preferably even faster, if your lighting allows for it. Or use your flash at slower shutter speeds.

his needs to be 1/2xfocal because of the crop of the sensor.
You're right; I meant to say effective focal length, which is 2x on Olympus (as you mentioned), 1.5x on Nikon and 1.6x on Canon.

also, make sure you're standing right. both feet on the ground, right hand on the grip on the right, left hand under the lens barrel, elbows in on your sides, and the camera pressed firmly against your head. then practice holding it steady. proper technique can give you a stop or two.
Da Grip <--Works with my D300; might not work so well with your palm-sized E-410.
 

destrekor

Lifer
Nov 18, 2005
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I've never had much of a problem as long as lighting is favorable. My telephoto lens is a 70-300mm with macro at 180-300. I've used it plenty of times at 300, with a few times with macro, with no problem and some damn sharp photos, which sometimes surprises me considering its a Tamron lens. Room to improve, I'm sure, but I'm not ready to pay considering I'd prefer to invest in a medium format camera. And I've gotten sharp shots at 300mm using 1/250 shutter speed. I've also had bad shots, but those were days I was pushing it, or maybe just wasn't able to hold as steady. I'm usually pretty good about holding the camera relatively steady (and my Nikon N65 is light as hell, sadly... need to get the grip/battery extension, but will look goofy as hell considering my camera is silver/black, and not solid black body).

+
 

dug777

Lifer
Oct 13, 2004
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I can't say I've ever really noticed that problem, at least in daylight here (but I guess the harsh brightness of Western Australia maybe somewhat different to the conditions you're shooting in.)

I usually shoot at ISO 100 or 200 with my D80 & 18-135mm (and all my 'macro' is at 135mm), but using the 80-200mm f2.8 for surfing shots I'd go up to 400 or even higher if it is overcast.
 

soydios

Platinum Member
Mar 12, 2006
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there are 3 key things to getting sharp at really slow shutter speeds: stance, elbows, finger, and breathing.
- get in a boxing stance. if you've ever learned how to properly shoot a gun before, use that stance. shooting a camera is the same way, except maybe stand slightly more upright to get your center of gravity under the camera instead of expecting recoil.
- elbows: keep them tucked in and under the camera. an elbow flapping outside your body will not be stable. an elbow squeezed against your side will be.
- finger: don't stab at the shutter. stabbing at the shutter is probably the #1 source of vibration in your photos. instead, set your finger down on the edge of the shutter, then roll it onto the shutter to half-press, then roll it all the way on to take the shot.
- breathing: shoot after exhaling. if done right, you can see the wiggles go way down after you settle after exhaling halfway or two-thirds, then holding your breath.

so, here's the order in which I take a shot at slow shutter speed:
- get in a boxing stance
- lift camera, tuck elbows
- inhale, hold breath
- frame and focus using finger roll technique
- exhale two thirds, hold breath
- gently and smoothly squeeze the shutter
- remember to hold the camera steady until I can see the target again