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1.8A or 2.0A decision?

Newegg seems to have 1.8A's retail for the exact same price as 2.0A's OEM. Beyond the obvious, which is going to offer me more value? Which will respond better to OC'ing? I have to admit I was having fantasies about getting a 1.8A and pushing the fsb to 133 and never looking back. What would be my total gain if I did that with the 2.0A? Negligible?

Please, any and all advice needed, as I am looking to order asap. :]
 
Honestly, I would go for the 1.8A if you're going to overclock. You'll end up paying more for the 2.0A since you have to buy a heatsink and fan for it. I was in a similar situation a few weeks ago. I had a choice between an AthlonXP 1600+ and 1700+ for about the same price. I decided to go with the 1600+ since so many people had great results with overclocking. Well, I hit XP 2000+ speed with little effort. Plus, the chances of you hitting 133MHz FSB with a 2.0A, while not impossible, are less likely than a 1.8A hitting it.
 

Can someone clarify what would be the difference b/w a retail boxed CPU and an OEM version? I went to buy my CPU today and I was faced with the same decision... 1.8A Retail, or 2.0A OEM? And I remembered that with the ATI Radeon (for example), I had read in the Forums that there are differences between the retail and oem versions on the benchmarks. Is there a similar difference b/w Retail and OEM CPUs as well (in terms of performance)? Or is it simply a matter of the "fancy box" and whether or not you get a Heatsink and Fan with the CPU?

Thanks in advance!

 
Originally posted by: Styler2K
Can someone clarify what would be the difference b/w a retail boxed CPU and an OEM version? I went to buy my CPU today and I was faced with the same decision... 1.8A Retail, or 2.0A OEM? And I remembered that with the ATI Radeon (for example), I had read in the Forums that there are differences between the retail and oem versions on the benchmarks. Is there a similar difference b/w Retail and OEM CPUs as well (in terms of performance)? Or is it simply a matter of the "fancy box" and whether or not you get a Heatsink and Fan with the CPU?

Thanks in advance!

The only difference is that the OEM CPUs have no HSF or warranty (or maybe only a 1 year warranty). But if you're going to OC, I wouldn't get the 2.0A unless its REALLY cheap, because of the high multiplier.
 
I think in the world if Intel CPUs boxed/retail is a far better deal than OEM. First you get the stock fan, which is good enough in many cases to do a good job at overclocking (not as good as some you can buy, but unless you are trying to break records, it should do the trick).

Second, as you can see reading these forums. Some chips overclock better than others. So would you like a chip that has been sealed since it left Intel? Or one that the dealer might have tested and decided it wasn't good for OCing and sold as OEM instead? I am not saying this is that likely, but why risk it?

As to the question of which chip is better, I ordered the 1.8A yesterday and from what I have read I would guess I have about a 90% chance of getting 133fsb. I think your odds drop significatly with the 2.0A maybe 50-60% of making that magic 133fsb overclock. On the other side of things if you dont like the risk of either grab a 1.6A and have almost a guaranteed overclockable chip.

I guess the question is how much do you want to gamble, each step up is a longer shot. But the bigger the risk the greater the returns.

note: Im sorta making up the odds here, if anyone thinks they have a clearer idea of what % of 1.6,1.8, and 2.0 chips can make the 133FSB please let me know.
 
Hi,
I have both the 1.6a and a 1.8a chip. The 1.6a is in a MSI 694 Ultra m/b (got it for about 70 shipped from newegg) and is running nicely at 2.24 ghz . The 1.8a is in an Abit BG7 and is running at 2.528 ghz This is with the retail hsf, using the thermal material that came on the hs and at default voltage. I'm using micron pc2100 memory. I think with better memory I could get the 1.8a to 2.7ghz.

Didn't have a problem with either chip reaching these speeds. The 1.6a is running about 36C at idle. The 1.8a is running about 42C. Both stable as a rock. No crashes since I finished tinkering 🙂

Hope this helps
 
OEM - for system builders/resellers, end-users get warranty from them instead of the manufacturer.
Retail - for end-users, end-users get direct warranty from the manufacturer.
 
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