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$1.77 Penske Oil Filters

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evergreen96

Senior member
Cheapest oil filter I seen in a while.... why paid $4-6 for Fram Filters @ Kragen or Napa Silver for $2.99

10% off air filters
Excludes PN 3766, 3759, 8616 6552

Turtle Wax 1 Gal Bug juice windsheild cleaner and bug remover $1.49


There at Kmart.


Does any1 know how the manufactures of these filter are? (eg Fram, Champion, MotorCraft, Wix, Napa....)




 
This isn't directly related to your deal, but I have to suggest staying away from FRAM filters. They're consistently some of the worst on the market.

http://minimopar.net/oilfilterstudy.html#fram

Also read the link on that page with the subjective results. (http://minimopar.net/oilfilters.html) which has a recommended list.

Purolator Pure One is recommended, which is what I use if the dealership is closed and I cant get a Toyota filter (Wix). If you drive a Toyota, let me know, and I can get you a part # for the japanese domestic market filter for your car. They're generally much better because of the driving conditions and maintenance schedules (very little) followed there.

Also, to stay relevant, it seems that FRAM makes Penske oil filters.. stay away 🙂 Remember, even a $10 oil filter (Mobil 1) is cheaper than the cost of a new or rebuilt engine, even if used for the life of the car.
 
Penske did not go under fells, Penske Auto Centers went out of business. Penske is a huge corporations with many many profitable venues. When K-Mart decided to close some stores Penske was affected and must have decided to jump ship with their K-Mart partnership. But Penske Corporation is still very strong and profitiable.

rcracerx
 
Just a warning: I believe these are outsourced from Fram (Allied Signal). These things are a good, cheap way to ruin an expensive engine over time.

I have personal experience that proves to me that Fram is junk. The hydraulic lifters in my mom's Volvo would clatter like mad for a second or two when the car was first started in the morning. It was a recent development, and they were concerned. As a favor to my mom for lending me her spare car for a few weeks, I changed the oil. I looked under the hood and noticed the dreaded orange canister. My cheap-ass stepfather had put it in the last time he changed the oil. I replaced it with a $3 Napa silver (a good deal), and the problem went away instantly. This Fram filter apparently had a non-functional anti-drainback valve, or no anti-drainback valve at all! I called them and told them that a new oil filter solved the problem. The next time I was there, I noticed a new Fram filter in the garage for the Maxima (!), so I took it and threw it away (thus wasting the money that my stepfather thought he was saving. I made sure to tell them that they were ?not allowed? to use Fram oil filters any more.

You get what you pay for with auto parts. Put enough cheap crappy parts on a car, and pretty soon, you'll have a crappy car.
 
I have had extremely good luck with fram filters. We drag race and put our motors through tons of stress. We always cut them apart and look at what they catch and they catch the smallest of metal particles. YMMV
 
I've never had any problems with Fram filters... My car has a 135K on it don't use a drop of oil don't make any noise either... My dad's 84 F-150 has 148k on it always used Fram Filters and Chevron Delo400 oil in it... Don't burn a lick of oil and still running strong. If you run a car long enough the oil filter will eventually plug up... Don't matter who makes it but if its plugged the motor ain't gettin' any oil!
 
I must agree with sjwaste and Garfang. FRAM is junk. If you wanna be cheap then use Delco, Motorcraft or whatever. An oil filter isn't worth saving money on, unless you can pick up some Mobil 1 filters from a (going out of business) KMart near you. They were half price at my local Kmart.
 
I use Hastings filters which I'm not 100% certain of, but think they are the same as the Amsoil ones. I get them for about $6/each shipped, so I'm happy. 🙂
 
My company makes some of the lower volume oil filters for brands like Fram, Penske, Pennzoil, Wix, Napa, Purolator, and Carquest. I cannot say much, but most of the differences involve paint and silkscreens. I myself do not prefer Fram because the designs are sometimes significantly different than their OE counterparts. For the higher volume models, Wix (supplies most Napa & Carquest) and Purolator tend to do a good job with their design and quality. Wix has a high percentage of OE production and therefore have the same quality as the OE. For the most part, unless the media blows out and you get a bypass, or the element clogs and you get no flow, most any filter will provide adequate engine protection. Just make sure you replace them regularly.
 
I guess what it comes down to is if you believe that $2 you're saving is worth it.

I figure I'm spending $4 a quart to put Mobil 1 oil into my Supra, so spending $6 on a Toyota filter isn't that big of a deal. In anything I've read where they've cut up filters, checkeed the materials, surface area, drainback valves, Fram falls into the low quality category. I mean, I spend about $30 an oil change on oil and filters.. its cheaper than a new engine.

You can keep using Fram filters and maybe never have a problem.. but why take the chance? Mobil 1 and K&N sell their oil filters for about $10 a piece.. cheap insurance of quality, really. Or, Purolator Pure One filters run about $4.. still a good bet. I just cant see why anyone would want to go cheap on an oil filter that's going into probably one of the more valuable things they own.
 
If you guys actually changed your oil every 2000-2500 miles like you are supposed to you wouldn't have to worry about the filters trying to squeeze out a couple hundred more miles on an oil change that is 2000 miles overdue😛
 
Originally posted by: Sesopedalian
There is no auto manufacturer in the world that recommends oil changes every 2000-2500 miles. That's to soon.
Click to expand...

I believe the car manufacturers say around 5000 miles and the oil companies say around 3000. My experience is that the oil becomes pretty broken down by 3000 miles especially if you have an older vehicle with warn piston rings.
 
Originally posted by: reicherb
Originally posted by: Sesopedalian
There is no auto manufacturer in the world that recommends oil changes every 2000-2500 miles. That's to soon.
Click to expand...

I believe the car manufacturers say around 5000 miles and the oil companies say around 3000. My experience is that the oil becomes pretty broken down by 3000 miles especially if you have an older vehicle with warn piston rings.
Click to expand...
Most auto manufacturers specify 5000 miles for 'regular' usage but specify 3000 miles for extreme use which is classified as just about anything you can think of: Extended highway driving, stop & go driving, summer driving, winter driving, etc. There is really no 'regular' 5000-mile-profile driver.

 
My truck recomends 7500 miles per oil change. I change it every 3000k as I drive like I just stole it 🙂

4wheeling is about as bad as you can get, so I change my oil and air filter regularly. Insurance is cheap as dirt. If i am going to spend 40k on a vehic, I will spend $50 quarterly to change the oil.
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
...I change it every 3000k ...
Click to expand...

3000K

:Q

🙂
I read somewhere that oil filter in todays engine is just a rather useless thing as there are not much dirt produced by the engine (metal are much better craft now). I may be wrong. Changing oil and the filter every 3K should be done. But i think keep to the manual (usually longer period) is okay.
 
Originally posted by: lsman
Originally posted by: Evadman
...I change it every 3000k ...
Click to expand...

3000K

:Q

🙂
I read somewhere that oil filter in todays engine is just a rather useless thing as there are not much dirt produced by the engine (metal are much better craft now). I may be wrong. Changing oil and the filter every 3K should be done. But i think keep to the manual (usually longer period) is okay.
Click to expand...

Maybe that would explain the sticker in my dad's Toyota then. I was under the hood Saturday changing the clutch master and slave cylinders when I noticed a sticker on the air filter box that said to change oil every 10K under normal conditions and 5K under severe conditions. Mind you, this is an 89.
 
My Supra's a 91, and the hood sticker and manual recommend the oil changed at 5K, filter every 10K.

With the right oil and filters, this interval WILL be ok. Redline oil routinely comes out of cars at 5k and is tested and still fit for use. It's like $8/quart 🙂

Mobil 1 is a relatively cheaper synthetic, at $4/quart, and I tend to go between 3 and 4k miles on a change, simply because it's shown to be useful past that. The oil filter, however, needs to come out every oil change.. I dont trust the manufacturer on that one.

Even still, why push it? Expensive synthetics and top of the line filters are STILL cheap. And every time I've had anything apart, I cant help but notice how new my internals look. 150k miles and going strong 🙂 YMMV.
 
Originally posted by: amdskip
I have had extremely good luck with fram filters. We drag race and put our motors through tons of stress. We always cut them apart and look at what they catch and they catch the smallest of metal particles. YMMV
Click to expand...

I doubt you really did.
I cut a FRAM PH3980 apart, and it is exactly the same cheap junk as in the Minimopar study.
I used FRAM exclusively in my car for 7-years. Guess what, it now has low oil pressure at idle.
I used STP (now Wal-Mart SuperTech) exclusively in my girl's car for 6-years. Guess what, it has the oil pressure of a new engine.
Both cars are ~190k miles.

Wal-Mart SuperTech oil filters are Champion Labs, BTW, so they're pretty decent.
 
I know this got way off topic, but I learned a lot about oil filters. Thanks for that. I have always prefered Puralotor and they seemed to test out pretty well. I think I will stay away from Fram from now on.
 
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