If they kept it to a low-demsity installation, that would be really great. But fiberglass batt might be cheaper, and will actually work better in the low frequencies. per NRC lab data.
Blown cellulose can be a real liability. If installed perfectly, and at a low density, it's great. To get that sort of perfection assured, you have to have open stud or joist cavities. Otherwise if you don't remove the drywall before blowing in, there's a great chance that the insulation will...
Insulation is one of the more expensive items (per square foot) that you might consider, and would do the least, specifically for the low frequencies. Counterintuitive, perhaps, but there's lots of lab data fortunately.
Short answer:
Look at isolating the ceiling as well as the 4 walls
Stay away from stairwell walls when doing this
Double 5/8" drywall and damping compound.
After that, your main potential leaks are doors, ceiling can lights, ventilation and outlets. All can be dealt with
You can spend a lot on a specialty carpet pad which primarily introduces mass and that's great but they are not that much heavier than a good heavy pad from your local carpet supplier. Go heavy. After that it doesn't matter much.
Heck of a post. Thanks for that. I agree with most and disagree with just a couple of the points. I really hope that none of this is perceived as an argument. That is absolutely not my intention. You bring up a number of fine points and these threads stay out here in cyberspace forever so I...
The bonding you're referring to would come from a stiffer mastic. The damping compounds are very flexible and not bonding. Besides, damping compounds are much more expensive than sealant or construction adhesive.
Certainly true. Flanking vibration through the walls may account for 20%+ of the...
Carpet and pad is the best / first thing to do for impact noise like footfall and furniture dragging, chairs, etc. Carpet is not as popular an option as it has been historically.
Great for building bass traps and in-room acoustical treatments, however. No appropriate for use in between ceiling...
The 703 is not appropriate. It is too dense for optimal absorption. It's perfect ON a wall not IN a wall. Refer to the extensive and exhaustive data conducted by the Canadian National Research Council. The finest acoustics lab in North America.
People often infer too much potential benefit...
The drywall you refer to we've tested many times over the years. Works well and as advertised. It's just light and expensive relative to what you can build yourself.
If buiding your own with 5/8" drywall, you would use the Green Glue, yes.
Not good advice. It's the only part of the system that directly (effectively) addresses the vibration at it's source. This limits the amount of vibration that can travel through the subfloor and joists.
Thats a good plan. Just an FYI, the use of the Green Glue and drywall on the underside of the subfloor will drop floor creaking to almost nothing. If the wood can't resonate, there's no creak.
Also the Green Glue isn't a sealant, so you would not want to: "Also, if there is a gap between...
Sure thing Juddog. Damped drywall is simply two sheets of standard drywall with a layer of visco-elastic damping compound in between. So a sandwich, really.
You can either pay a company to make this sandwich or make the sandwich yourself.
If you buy the sandwich pre-made, you'll pay $50 for...
:\
At the risk of being voted off the island, I would sugest the OP follow the independently tested data. The internet if full of a lot of mixed opinion and that's great, but if you want to drill down to a solution, perhaps the data gets you there quicker.
For example:
Dense foam-like...
Please pardon my brevity.
You want light fluffy insulation in a wall or ceiling cavity. Well established acoustic fact. Fiberglass, mineral wool, cellulose, polyester, cotton all perform similarly. Foams of any kind are to be avoided.
There is no reason to spend silly amounts of money on a...
The foam is a no-no. Not used for acoustic isolation in a sealed cavity. Simple fiberglass works much better. This is based on significant lab data and not an opinion.
Since footfall noise is involved, the solution isn't so straightforward. Have a look at an article dedicated to ceiling...
Howard, I'm not following you, however it is safe to say that bass absorbers do not soundproof anything. They are only used to treat lower frequency reverb remaining in the room.
Corner traps are to reduce reverberating bass frequencies that have insufficient energy to leave the room. If they are higher energy, they will not bounce off a wall, they will leave the room via the wall. Two different events.
Bass waves that have sufficient energy to leave the room will be...
To stop low frequencies, the walls, ceiling and floor need to have a lower resonance point (frequency) than the frequencies coming in. Bass traps will do nothing. That is not what they are designed to do.
Hopefully, some here might find this interesting. Generally the most difficult aspect of...
Paperfist, Not that there's anything wrong with that, but there are better methods.
For example, using Roxul, unless you get it cheap, won't work any better than cheap fiberglass. Per a lot of independent lab data. Works great, however.
Resilient channel I've already commented on.
Using a...
The resilient channel can decouple, which is more than can be said for standard channel applied to the joists. The problem is there is no single standard or spec for "resilient channel," so you really don't know if any particular channel performs better with one sheet of drywall load, or two...
Glad that worked out for you. You'll like having it isolated.
Given that this thread will be out on the internet forever, while you had success using resilient channel, I would caution others from using it. Consider other decoupling options.
Well, there's where I'm stuck I guess. Some aspect of what I'm doing is incorrect, as folders created won't accept the old emails.
Again, Maybe this is too trivial an issue to bring up here, though I'm grateful for your thoughts, Z.
So I need .pst folders to dump files to and keep the folder under 2gb. Thanks for that. This is the heart of my issue as I have folders created but am not allowed to dump to them.
While I deal with a lot of technical issues in my work, The science of the PC eludes me. And so I'm hoping that someone can help me.
I'm having issues storing old emails. 1-2 times a week I receive an Outlook message:
Cannot move the items. The...
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