Block: I think the ApogeeGTZ, Fuzion V2, and EK-Supreme are better choices, but I don't know about the DD MPC.
Tubing: 10-15' Tygon 1/2" ID
Clamps: 8 Nylon or Worm-gear
Fittings: These are the barbs to connect the tubes to. You need 6 1/2" OD G1/4 fittings (pump doesn't need fittings). EK-HighFlow and DangerDen FatBoys are good choices.
The compact kit isn't really worth it IMO. It's a good rad, but it's 2 combo parts. The Res/Rad needs to be vertical and the pump/block isn't as good as having them separate.
well the res/rad WILL be mounted vertically hanging out the back of my lian li V1000 case.
how much of a "loss" will i be taking with the compact kit's pump/block compared to having comparably priced parts seperately?
So according to one review I read on the internet I can safely say that if you are trying to WC on the cheap take a look at the 350 Drive because its $85 and seems to work just fine. The GTZ is like $65. the DDC3.2 is $75 and the XSPC top is $40.
If you really want to use one keep in mind that you are commiting to a cpu only loop. If that is fine with you I would just buy it by itself and have another $90 for one of these and you tubing/fittings from petra's. The 350 Drive uses 3/8" barbs.
louis can you get a d-tek fusion or a GTZ instead?
Clamps would play the role on tubing. If you get 1/2ID 3/4OD you will need herbie clamps or worm drive clamps.
If your tubing is 7/16ID on 5/8OD like masterkleer, then all you need is zipties if your going on 1/2OD barbs. Get around 15 feet, masterkleer is cheap, and i recomend it to first timers all the time.
Pick up 4 barbs metal barbs for your radiator and res.
You will need 2 each, i recomend Bitspower Silver barbs.
I suggest Masterkleer based in OH - I had their direct # but you can order it here. I'd suggest those dimensions also. They are a tight fit over 1/2 barbs. The trick to pushing them over the barb is to heat the end up by dipping it into hot water and pushing it on that way. Believe me, I don't even worry about leakage around any other area besides the CPU which i used clamps over the tubing for extra precaution - but even that is laughable. Grab a 1" spade bit and some rubber grommets to fill in those holes. The 1" spade bit is a cleaner cut than using a hole saw like I did for my 120mm cut-outs which is ~ a 4 1/2 hole saw in diameter. If you aren't aware, use all the same materials in your build. Copper is suppose to be the best.
I usually get 15' which leaves plenty of leftover for future changes. Also, measure twice, cut once!
You can piece together a very nice system from the FS/FT section as well. Usually, you can grab an Apogee GT or Fuzion V1 for around $30 shipped and $55 for the MCP655 pump. Not many let go of the MCR320 but the MCR220 can be had cheap, though you are better off getting the mCR320 new for $50.
update: how about this? for a compelete (down to the last screw) water cooling kit for a noob?
Rad: Swiftech MCR-320
Pump: Laing DDC 3.2 / Swiftech MCP355 (are they the same?)
CPU Block: D-Tek Dusion V2
Res: Swiftech Micro $25
Tube: 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing (10 feet of this enough?)
Clamps: Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (how many of these will i need? 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for cpu block?)
Fittings: how do i tell which i need and how much i need?
You need to pick up an XSPC top for the DDC3.2/MCP355 (they are the same) because the stock top is only 3/8 barbs. Then you'll need to pick up two addition fittings.
As for fittings, 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for the pump, and the CPU block comes with fittings. They will all be 1/2OD G1/4 barbs. DangerDen FatBoys and EK High-Flows are good fittings. Clamps will be 8 in number.
Originally posted by: PCTC2
You need to pick up an XSPC top for the DDC3.2/MCP355 (they are the same) because the stock top is only 3/8 barbs. Then you'll need to pick up two addition fittings.
As for fittings, 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for the pump, and the CPU block comes with fittings. They will all be 1/2OD G1/4 barbs. DangerDen FatBoys and EK High-Flows are good fittings. Clamps will be 8 in number.
can ya link me to the correct fittings that i need each for my radiator, my pump, and my reservoir?
plus, i'm thinking of getting the MCR 320 triple 120mm radiator WITH THE REServoir built in, what fittings would i need for this?
However, be warned. Both of these barbs have recessed O-rings. A lot of Swiftech parts have recessed threads that won't seal properly with recessed O-rings. To solve this, you can just double up the O-rings by purchasing some extra O-rings here at Mountain Mods
EDIT: You may not need to, but that's what a out-of-box leak-test is for.
Originally posted by: PCTC2
You need to pick up an XSPC top for the DDC3.2/MCP355 (they are the same) because the stock top is only 3/8 barbs. Then you'll need to pick up two addition fittings.
As for fittings, 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for the pump, and the CPU block comes with fittings. They will all be 1/2OD G1/4 barbs. DangerDen FatBoys and EK High-Flows are good fittings. Clamps will be 8 in number.
can ya link me to the correct fittings that i need each for my radiator, my pump, and my reservoir?
plus, i'm thinking of getting the MCR 320 triple 120mm radiator WITH THE REServoir built in, what fittings would i need for this?
Thanks for the info. I didn't know that Swiftech made a rad with a built in res.
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
I routinely hose down my computer in the sink (to remove dust) using the dish-sprayer, and plug it right back in. Good as new! The extra evaporation helps keep the PC a little cooler than normal too-- it's like water cooling!
Originally posted by: PCTC2
You need to pick up an XSPC top for the DDC3.2/MCP355 (they are the same) because the stock top is only 3/8 barbs. Then you'll need to pick up two addition fittings.
As for fittings, 2 for res, 2 for rad, 2 for the pump, and the CPU block comes with fittings. They will all be 1/2OD G1/4 barbs. DangerDen FatBoys and EK High-Flows are good fittings. Clamps will be 8 in number.
can ya link me to the correct fittings that i need each for my radiator, my pump, and my reservoir?
plus, i'm thinking of getting the MCR 320 triple 120mm radiator WITH THE REServoir built in, what fittings would i need for this?
Thanks for the info. I didn't know that Swiftech made a rad with a built in res.
I just googled it and Swiftech also do a 2x120mm version: MCR220-QP-RES
Does any one know if they are any good - I might consider it for my second loop? It may fit on the 2x120mm fans in the front bottom corner of my Lian li A70A case.
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
I routinely hose down my computer in the sink (to remove dust) using the dish-sprayer, and plug it right back in. Good as new! The extra evaporation helps keep the PC a little cooler than normal too-- it's like water cooling!
so lets do a run down again of EVERY SINGLE PART that i will need for COMPLETE CPU water cooling.
Radiator: Swiftech MCR 220 QP
Reservoir: Swiftech Microres
Pump: Swiftech MCP 335 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/ladd1mcin12p.html) (What is this XSPC Top I keep reading about? what is it and how do i put it on?)
CPU Block: D-Tek Fusion V2 (unless someone has a better one.) (+ is this a low restriction or high restriction block? does it work well with the pump above^^?)
Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (15 feet)
Fitings (are these also called barbs?): 8 x DD Fatboy G 1/4 1/2" ID Barbs (http://www.jab-tech.com/Danger...-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html<~ these correct with my radiator/pump/tubing?)
Clamps: 11 x steel worm clamps
T-Line: 1/2" to 1/2" T (http://www.jab-tech.com/1-2-T-...ing-Clear-pr-3517.html<~ this exact one okay? and is this required with my rad/res?)
Mounting: Swiftech Steel MCB-120 "Radbox" Rev. 1 (what is the diff between rev 1 & 2? will i still be able to mount a fan in place of the radbox?)
Fans: 3 or 6 Yate loon 120x25mm low speed fans (around 1350rpm iirc)
please make any and all corrections and suggestions for me
6 yate loons @ 1350rpm's would be kinda loud don't you think? I mean, I use 2 1600rpm fans on my TRUE with great cooling results and manageable noise, but times that by ~3 and it'd be too much.
__________________ CPU Q9550 @ 4.25 (mirror lapped TRUE 120 push/pull) Mobo Gigabyte UD3R (p45) Memory 8gb 4x2gb ddr2-1066 OCZ HPC HDD Primary 300gb Velociraptor + 1tb caviar black Video BFG GTX 295 648/1404/2304
"yea....
+$125 vista business oem= you lose" - 0roo0roo
yea i said 3-6 just because thats an option, it'll be more like 3-5. it won't be so bad since i'll be able to "cut" 2 fans from my system which are: my tuniq fan + my rear exhaust fan
Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS hey dont steal my thread!
i was wondering... would a the MCR220 rad/res or MCR320 rad/res be the best performance/$$/space for overclocking a Q6600 to 3.4ghz @ 1.4vCore?
+ what fans are optimal for these radiators?
Sorry.
Your parts list seems to be ok, except that you have stated 3 or 6 fans on a 2x120mm long rad. I think this should be 2 or 4 fans (if you decide to go with a push pull config in the latter case). Also what are you going to use to plug the T-line? I suggest this with an additional G1/4 barb or this.
You've got the correct number of barbs (exc. another for the ball valve if you decide to use this).
You may want to consider using this instead of the plastic T-piece.
The XSPC pump top replaces the standard pump top on the Swiftech 355. Essentially you un-screw the plastic top from the pump housing and screw on the XSPC top. It is very easy - just remember to fit the O-ring between the top and housing.
You will need the XSPC pump top if you are using 7/16" ID tubing because the standard plastic Swiftech top comes with integral 3/8" barbs and you need 1/2" barbs. These plastic 3/8" barbs are formed into the plastic top and cannot be removed nor replaced.
The XSPC top also improves the pump performance - there is a review somewhere which compares the difference between the standard pump and the pump with the XSPC top (I can't remember the website though).
Your T-line will go at the lowest point in your loop for draining. So perhaps you will put it between the pump outlet and CPU block inlet, assuming your loop will be as follows with your pump mounted lower in the case than the res and the rad mounted near the top (externally on the back of the case??).
CPU -> Rad -> Res -> Pump -> CPU
I haven't a clue what the differences are between the two revisions of the rad box.
Also, Aigo will recommend the best fans to use on your rad for your circumstances.
Originally posted by: soccerballtux
I routinely hose down my computer in the sink (to remove dust) using the dish-sprayer, and plug it right back in. Good as new! The extra evaporation helps keep the PC a little cooler than normal too-- it's like water cooling!
flirting with idea of watercooling
) (drive 
