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Old 12-31-2012, 04:38 PM   #1
Artista
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Default Best product for protection and restoration of auto rubber and plastic?

What is the best product for black plastic and rubber protection and restoration?

The sun is eating my black plastic on my vehicle.

Armour all sucks..figure that is a given.

Thought about that new "wipe on" product I have seen on TV recently.

Anyone know a product that will work, specially to restore mildly damaged black hard plastic?

Thanks

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Old 12-31-2012, 04:46 PM   #2
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Vinylex By lexol is pretty good. I have used it for years.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:41 PM   #3
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I use and like this stuff...
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ltimate-black/
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:51 PM   #4
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Meguiar's makes a white cream too that is supposed to be good.

Or maybe you could try sunblock. Miata owners put that on their soft tops
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artista View Post
Armour all sucks..figure that is a given
I've heard this time and again. I've been using it since the 1980s on my dash, interior plastics, exterior rubber and plastic trim. I've never had them crack or degrade and I've lived in some damn hot and sunny places (like California's Central Valley). One car was parked on the street in Fresno for ten years. It's amazing enough it was never stolen, but it's plastics and rubber trim survived too.
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Old 01-01-2013, 08:36 AM   #6
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Black Wow is amazing stuff:

http://www.autogeek.net/black-wow-trim-restorer.html

It will take some prep work but it's worth it. This isn't a dye though. If you want a truly permanent solution you can also dye the plastic.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:42 PM   #7
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i like the meguire's cream for leather and silicone for plastic.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artista View Post
What is the best product for black plastic and rubber protection and restoration?

The sun is eating my black plastic on my vehicle.

Armour all sucks..figure that is a given.

Thought about that new "wipe on" product I have seen on TV recently.

Anyone know a product that will work, specially to restore mildly damaged black hard plastic?

Thanks

I've had good luck with 303.

I've also had good luck with 3M Marine Vinyl Cleaner and Proctector (though I had to go to a boat shop to get that).

Best of luck.

Uno
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:59 PM   #9
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Good suggestions so far. Will have to try. The worst plastic is outside and it is a hard plastic around the back windows. Why for the love of goodness does the manufacturer put plastic on the outside prone to sun rot?
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:37 AM   #10
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Sonax is a well known company related to car care products. You may want to have a look ==> http://www.sonax.com/Car-Care/Produc...terior-Plastic
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:02 PM   #11
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ArmorAll is good for a quick shine for a short period.
If you want a longer lasting shine, try STP Tire Foam, (no other brand works as well) it will last longer.
And, if you want a REALLY long lasting, (restored) shine, spray the plastic or vinyl liberally with it and walk away, overnight or ~8 hrs. then wipe. (Be sure to get a good coat all over lest it be spotty)
I learned this quite by accident.
Many years ago I was on a job, outside the main gate waiting for our Truck Driver, and I had a little time to kill.
Was driving an older Pickup with the dash totally faded & dried out. I had just sprayed the entire dash when the Driver showed up, so I just let it sit.
Came out after work, wiped the little bit of Tire Foam that was left, and forgot about it.
I must have kept that truck for 3-4 years and the dash still looked almost new!

For ~$4.00 a can, it's certainly worth a try!

Oh yeah, the "Wipe-New" they advertise on TV may well work just fine, IDK, but years ago, I found something similar at Big Lots, it was an Exterior Finish restorer, and it came with a really fine applicator sponge.
I used it on an older car that had faded paint, it went on smooth & made the car shine like new! Only bad thing was that I had to put it on once a year.
I went online the other day to possibly buy some, but that $19.95 ended up being closer to ~$36.00 by the time you added the "free" detailing kit & "Shipping & Handling" for both!
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:27 PM   #12
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Sorry guys, I am just trying to get used to posting, ??, I am a newbee,

I put this up yesterday to talk about plastic and paint resto,

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2316527

back asap,
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:14 AM   #13
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Hey Guys,

Bottom line is I am an old guy and a computer dummy, perhaps even a dyslexic computer dummy, I have been playing with plastic and paint all my life with a passion, but only been reading and watching ( u-tube ) plastic resto on the net for the last few weeks, after reading all the posts there and here, which I did enjoy, not so much for the info shared, more for the posters, and the good will shared here, feels like home,
Please note as previously mentioned I have very little experience with computers and photo bucket but I have a load of pictures on photo bucket and am in last stages, of being able to get the “ linking method” worked out, That is computer talk, I have also started gathering sample pictures of current restorations I am doing now, and over the last few years, getting that done asap, I also see a picture attachment in the window, so I will post a few pics of 05 and 08 vehicles plastic restorations in progress, as well 90s and you can link to photobucket soon as I get worked out,

When my passion for cars crossed my passion for plastic also crossed with my first successful restoration, 17 years ago, I first focused my plastic passion on plastic found in muscle cars of the 70s, an education in its self, which starts with “ seriously UV damaged plastic “,
I would suggest from my experience there is a serious “misconception “ about Uv damage, in that it is usually thought the faded plastic uv damage only lays on the surface of the plastic, but my line of thought is uv radiation penetrates deeper then the surface, I have seen plenty of interior trim with holes burnt though, once you remove the crust,
Meaning as part of the solution to concourse restoration and preservation of plastic ( bike , pickup kids toys, computer TV,) is to reach deeper, then sanding the surface oxidation and polishing with peanut butter,?
Also my experience is, removing plastic oxidation is not so much about removing plastic oxidation, as removing the layers of oxidized quickie polishes that have a given shelf life of shine, of around a month or two each, when restoring 43 year old unreplaceable plastic to concourse condition, I observed the following points of interest, I can often see the build up of waxes and polish, and that the build up changes the original colour of the plastic, the up side is I think that build up of oxidized polishes, gave considerable protection to the plastic, and that on occasions I find or get to see NOS ( new old stock ) plastic, I often see that 43 year plastic can be seen as new, well the ones that were in sealed boxes look new
A point worth noting is that no quick fix polish has any evidence or indication that it can or is restoring the oxidized polishes that it is covering up, not many people will go to the trouble of removing old polishes, it is very hard to remove “all “ the old coats of oxidized polishes in the corners, even in a new car, in patterns in the plastic, any solvent that removes built up polish is so hard to get off, and leaves streaks,
I know this is getting a little boring, and I know most of you guys only want a solution for your late model rides, and we will get to that soon, but I would suggest an understanding of oxidization is the key to a concourse plastic restoration ,
Bask asap,
Ps, I linked the car wash thread with this thread to add comment a little later,
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #14
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:44 AM   #15
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Sorry, I am just trying to load pics,
testing again,
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:46 AM   #16
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:37 AM   #17
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yahoo, it worked,

Please note, in the after pic, plastic around spring around the shock is restored, blinker lenses, blinker arm, engine case. rego sticker holder,wheel rim, wheel chain sprocket, also black seat, black chain guard,black rear mud guard, and oxidization on the swing arm and frame,in the before pic,
backasap,
please note this process is plastic restoration and in the 17 years of experience I have never ever experienced any effect on any paint or chrome or my hands,
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:11 AM   #18
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opps, the bike is a china plastic, 05 model, 78,000k, left in the sun during work days, garaged at night, 4-5 years, not running a 3-4 years,

Please note, I would suggest to know and understand the application of the process and how and when and why will ensure concourse results long term, I can asure all that this process is not "anything' like rubbing on a wonder polish, exactly the opposite, depending on the uv damage to the plastic, number of coats of polish and waxes, so to help anyone understand, and do plastic restoration, they have to have an understanding removing badly damaged oxidized plastic, the method is as follows,
backasap.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:35 AM   #19
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oooooooooooooooooooooooo
My line of thought on plastic oxidation is not all about plastic oxidation, it is more about how many layers of wipe on quick shine polishes, or waxes there are on top, the best of them usually only last look good a month or two, and oxidize, UV radiation just cooks them, and turn almost any colour plastic milky colour or light gray,
Think about this, please, a or any vehicle is made he sits around waiting to be sold, you come to buy it and a dealer’s detail, he sprays a quick drying polish on the plastic, and two months later the polish oxidizes, so you wax it, that last a month, so you armour all it, or wax, a further month and more trouble, please consider when you buy plastic garden furniture, it last one and half years before you start seeing any UV effects, or at least a year, ??. Another case in point is plastic garbage bins, they sit in the sun for 2 years they stay bright and shiny, on average depending how much they sit in the sun, in certain conditions where garbage bins are only placed in sunlight a few hours, to be emptied, then placed back under and into a nice cool big building, no indirection radiation, only cool conditions, that plastic stays bright and clean 4-5 years with a regular light clean by maintaince dep of the building,, , and even the humble plastic biscuit barrel has a allot of years life span and shine in the kitchen, there is a clue there, house hold kitchen plastic like biscuit barrels ,Tupperware lasts and look great for years,
So my focus is on removing oxidized “polishes” first and then checks for “plastic” oxidization. Sometimes it appears to me that many layers of oxidized polishes have actually protected the plastic from any UV damage, and or wear damage by 40 years to the pattern,
Anyway, this is how I cut down on sanding if you are using sanding as a method of removing oxidised build-up, ,
One method i use is , I take the plastic whatever, let’s say a badly oxidized mudguard,, I would then look around for a plastic container or stainless steel container that the plastic panel fits in, My focus is on having a container just a little bigger than the plastic body, I just want to cover the plastic body, or whatever it is, with water, using as less water volume I can, then place that container in a warm area, maybe on a sheet of tin and good sun just to keep it warm, then drop in half a cup of Caustic Soda, ( drain cleaner ) ( draino ), and leave it for 2 days, after two days I would think it would have taken me a day of hard sand paper rubbing to finish, so I would throw in a another half coffee cup of Caustic and put the lid back on, and think that cost me ? Nothing for the water, plus a few dollars for the caustic, = $3.00, as opposed to $30.00 in sand paper, ?, 20 setting up the caustic tank, as opposed to hours of rubbing,
Guys, a little warning to the new guys who have never handled Caustic Soda before, please always add the crystals to the water, never ever add water to the crystals, if you do, and you are holding the container, it will defiantly burn you, or someone else, no need for hot of even warm water, just let it get warmed by the sun and soak for days, also works good in drains,
After another 2 days I would pull it out expecting to find that the caustic has completely softened anything that is attached to surface of “ good plastic “, then using a “ stainless steel scourer pad “, it has to be the s/s scourer pad, not steel wool, please remember not steel wool, as soon or if I find the oxidized materials that are not really soft, like water soaked chalk, I will throw it back in the caustic for another 2 days, the soft white gunk just strips off, with minimal pressure on the s/s pad, as I come to the good colour plastic, with really no pressure, even gently, I would fast polish the last of the oxidation off, ready for compound buffing, all done, the s/s scourer pad will scratch, these scratches can be buffed out pretty easy, or you can go from the s/s pad to 1800 to 2000 wet sand buffed out pretty easy, interesting point here is, I have not removed any “ good “ plastic then necessarily like sanding, ( I am loading pics of the s/s scourer pad, and tools I use, there is a knife that I use to scrap the soft stuff off, I use it on a 90 degree angle, to scrap, please note the blade is curved, and does not leave scratches like a razor blade, please remember I have 17 years experience, new guys please stick with the s/s scourer,
At this point if you’re interested and have not fallen asleep, I should mention that soaking plastic in caustic works great on plastic with patterns pressed into it from the mould when it was made,, please note I have now stopped referring to flat bike plastic like bike mud guards, and now referring to vinyl and Pressed patterns plastic like car seats, and the matching pressed or injected plastic kick panels, wind lacers, rear vision mirrors, dash and glove box faces, rear dog leg plastic trims, pillar vinyl , and most uv damage chain guards, and black or gray mud guards off bikes, I my self have cleaned hundreds of car interior trim parts , mainly Australian ford muscle car, 1968-1971 Gt, Gt Ho,Gs, ) Black ,tan, blue, red, but I have never been able to do much with white, forget white plastic of this vintage, also plastic that has 2 or 3 layers of coloured plastic are unrepairable at this time, if the top layers are worn away badly, but hey, if you got the money, I can do it,
So I have large 2 plastic drums with lids, which take 10 sets of wind lacers, 20 kick panels , 20 plastic dog leg covers, many dash and interior small parts all go in the plastic drum, then I cook all them up at one time, please note the 2 following methods of cleaning or removing cooked oxidation off, 1 wind lacers, ( wind lacers have thousands of small, 1/16” x 1/16 x 1/16 hole pattern pressed into the plastic by the mould, these holes are often full of built up waxes and or polishes,) which by this time is soft oxidation, to get into and to the bottom of the small holes, I use a large wire brush, “ NOT JUST ANY WIRE BRUSH “, I go to the hardware with lots of wire brushes, and rub each wire brush on the back of my hand, the softest one that does not break or scratch my skin is the right brush for plastic, please note wind lace plastic is softer plastic then injected kick panels, or vinyl , so I wire brush the wind lacers pretty hard and fast, about 10 mins each wind lace, clean as a whistle, patterned kick panels and vinyl are the opposite, gentle swirling rubbing motion with the soft wire brush to get all the all the gunk out of the pattern “ grooves “ is easy and quick, takes about 12 mins for a kick panel, for someone with 17 years experience, including a quick light buff with the s/s pad, or even a light buff over the high spots,
back asap.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:35 AM   #20
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Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. Don't feel bad about not being all up on the Internet message board thing. One suggestion —*put some spaces between paragraphs to make your detailed posts easier to read.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:44 AM   #21
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Sorry i miss placed a post above this one, where it shows ooooooooooooooooooo above last post, this post should be in front ,
So I suggest the “solution to long term plastic preservation of new plastic or near new 2013 plastic has to be a plastic moisturizer, or ends to that affect, also it is handy that it is a rejuvenator as well, what do i mean by rejuvenator, ??, meaning the chemical solution used to remove the u/v /damage on new plastic, actually I think the process I use is both, No1, moisturizer, No 2, rejuvenator, as well as another major factor, No 3, to explain that factor I further explain there are 2 methods = A and B, method A is as follows,
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Old 06-09-2013, 01:34 PM   #22
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Thanks very much nerp, my pleasure mate, I am a bit of a hurry so computer stuff ups are regular, I feel guilty after just reading lots of posts everywhere, I have had it so easy for the last 17 years compared to what I read, I suppose you guys remind of the time before I started to get it right, I did around 18 years of what you guys are doing, makes my blood run cold thinking of what I used to do to get a shine in my younger days, Please share a little day dream of mine with me, based on my experience having late model 08 new van, that I restored, people I don't know stop me who see the my van parked next to them, they are thinking of buying one, so by chance they ask me, " what do you think of the latest model " referring to my 08, so that brings out my little devil, and I say " I really impressed with the new dash," and I open the door and show them a fully restored interior, this van never changed much 08 to 2013, then when I tell them it is a 08 they get this real disconnected look on their faces, they won't believe it, and on occasions I meet people who are are trying to get extra money out me and accuse me of being tight because I am driving a brand new off the show room floor van, they wont believe me that it is a 08 either, and finding it in the car park, I think white, van , and NEW, i FIND IT REAL EASY FROM A LONG WAY AWAY, so my day dream is one day I will drive my 98 white all-wheel drive turbo wagon GTT, fully restored looking brand new, ( 68,000k ), and most other cars and trucks on the road are fully restored as well, occasionally I will see a daggy 2010 with survive faded plastic, ( some people will never learn ), it will be weird, haha, anyway I will post after van and before wagon pics asap,

Ps, I am working on that spacing for you, next post mate, I still got lots to share, and I don;t want to take up too much space,
as for easy reading you might try or holding your hand over one eye, that is how I write them, , I will fix it soon, ino,uno,soweno.
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:31 AM   #23
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08 susy APV, history, the van was brought new for a business that failed immediately, so the van only did 10,000k, sat for 10 months, I got it cheap, with a few weeks interstate rego,
I put 2,000k on it, and rego ran out, the reason why I purchased the van also failed, so I parked it in a max sunny tar car park, hot as, to burn the crap out of it for a year and half, so it was fully faded, like the white gtt wagon, 65,000k and a red 08 ford fiesta 60,000k , show pictures soon, ( yes, [IMG]file:///CUsers\Jackson\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\0 1\clip_image001.gif[/IMG], I do have my own little testing set up for controlled burns, ) the gtt has been baking about 2 years, outside plastic and paint badly oxidized, and i am planning a paint and plastic concourse restoro on the wagon in the future,, and the fiesta was slightly uv damaged, so I left it burn for another year, ,then about 6 months ago, I give it the first treatment, 20 mins easy work, and another a month later 2 treatment or application,, 20 mins work, and left it a further seven months in the sun and dust, until now ,I will soon spend 30mins to complete a half / half restoration, the festiva is interesting because of the length of time I have left the coating or first treatment on for seven months, the van had the first treatment on for about 10 days, leaving it sitting and burning in the sun. second treatment about 40 days, then rego and final cleanup, to this,
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:47 AM   #24
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Old 06-10-2013, 02:48 AM   #25
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