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Old 04-23-2012, 06:25 PM   #1
bamx2
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Default Loosening a Honda crankshaft pulley bolt ?

I am trying to get the crankshaft pulley off a 1999 Honda CRV for a timing belt replacement . The engine turns CCW (looking at the pulley ) meaning the bolt cannot be loosened using the starter (edit - Some Honda models have CW rotating engines others CCW . NOTE -Verify the engine rotation before if you plan to use the starter method - OK FOR CW , NOT OK FOR CCW) . I have tried the cheater pipe and breaker bar method with a supported extension bar and used the special crankshaft pulley holding tool. I snapped a 1/2 inch drive extension bar (Craftsman brand) . A 500 ft lb air impact didn't work either . Any one here run into one like this ?

Last edited by bamx2; 04-25-2012 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:40 PM   #2
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Ive heard one trick is to wedge the socket handle against the ground and bump the starter to break it loose. Im not vouching for the safety of this method but supposedly the starters got some good torque. If you put 500lbs to it and it didn't break loose then its time to hit with a torch and heat that bitch up.

Poking around on google there's a crank holder tool that might help if the pulley is rotating at all.

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ool/index.html
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:48 PM   #3
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Just out of curiosity was that 500lb ft impact gun running on a compressor? If it wasnt getting full pressure it may not have been putting out full torque.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:55 PM   #4
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Also if the 1/2 inch drive sockets are breaking it may be time to hit sears and get a 3/4" drive handle and socket. My ramblers rear axle nuts were big and i couldnt find a 1 and 3/16" socket in half inch drive. Had to go up to 3/4". Those things are strong. A little pricey but you can probably get a non-ratcheting handle, an extension and the socket you need for 100 bucks.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:26 PM   #5
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+1 to the low air flow to impact gun. You also need the specific "high flow" connectors and larger diameter hose to really make it work.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:30 PM   #6
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I got rid of my Grand Prix GTP because I could not get the crank pulley out to change the crank sensor. Tried heat too. Someone had put red loctite on it apparently and there was a good chance the threads in the crankshaft were coming out with it if it ever came out.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:49 PM   #7
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I find a 3/4" drive or 1" drive breaker bar(NOT RATCHET) with a 4-5' pipe for a cheater bar works great.
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Old 04-24-2012, 12:02 AM   #8
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Also if the 1/2 inch drive sockets are breaking it may be time to hit sears and get a 3/4" drive handle and socket. My ramblers rear axle nuts were big and i couldnt find a 1 and 3/16" socket in half inch drive. Had to go up to 3/4". Those things are strong. A little pricey but you can probably get a non-ratcheting handle, an extension and the socket you need for 100 bucks.
Also from what I read you want to support that extension with a jack or jack stand or it will pull off the bolt and you'll round it off.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:19 AM   #9
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Long bar

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Old 04-24-2012, 01:24 AM   #10
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Crank holder tool is what I use on the Prelude. Lets you wedge a breaker bar against the frame, then use another breaker bar to break it loose. I used a hammer on the breaker bar, after overnight WD40 penetration and 2 minutes of torch.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:34 AM   #11
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Crank holder tool is what I use on the Prelude. Lets you wedge a breaker bar against the frame, then use another breaker bar to break it loose. I used a hammer on the breaker bar, after overnight WD40 penetration and 2 minutes of torch.
Yeah sounds like this is the way to go. Supposedly that's how Honda dealers do it too.

Sometimes having the right tool for a job can be priceless. After you've spent 6 hours trying to bust a nut or bolt loose that requires a special tool, you realize it's not happening with out that tool. Many times you can break things trying to do it without the right tool.

When I pulled the rear hubs on my Rambler to change the bearings I shredded two 3 jaw pullers trying to get them off. Even with them heated up they wouldn't budge. All the advice online said you had to get one of these bad boys:

Finally I caved, dropped the $200 and bought the damn puller. Even with that I was wailing on it for a good 20 minutes before it popped off. When it let go it sounded like a gunshot. I sat down after that, had a beer and reveled in having just kicked its ass.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:57 AM   #12
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Good point about the compressor air delivery. The plastic output regulator looks like it might be too small . The compressor label though, shows it to be rated for 4.4 CFM / 90 PSI .

I am going to look for a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar, extension and socket.
Unfortunately, the nearby HF and Sears don't have everything .

I guess that I should try the PB BLASTER penetrant soak, heat the bolt and use the bar method but am wondering if the heat would damage the rubber dampener part of the pulley or seals . Any recommendations on heating it are appreciated

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Old 04-24-2012, 08:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimaxi83 View Post
Crank holder tool is what I use on the Prelude. Lets you wedge a breaker bar against the frame, then use another breaker bar to break it loose. I used a hammer on the breaker bar, after overnight WD40 penetration and 2 minutes of torch.
That's how I did my Accord, except sans torch. I'd imagine the torch would also help liquify whatever loctite may be on the crank bolt?
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:13 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by bamx2 View Post
I am trying to get the crank pullet off a 1999 CRV for a timing belt replacement . The engine turns CCW (looking at the pulley ) meaning it cannot be loosened using the starter. I have tried the cheater pipe and breaker bar method with a supported extension bar and used the special crankshaft pulley holding tool. I snapped a 1/2 inch drive extension bar (Craftsman brand) . A 500 ft lb air impact didn't work either . Any one here run into one like this ?
Yes. Tried to remove the crank pully off an 89 toyota pickup with the 22re engine. Ended up taking me using a 1 inch, 1200 ft lb air impact wrench plus two guys using a breaker bar with a 6 foot cheater to get the bolt to release. This was after soaking it with pb blaster for 2 days and using heat as well.
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by bamx2 View Post
Good point about the compressor air delivery. The plastic output regulator looks like it might be too small . The compressor label though, shows it to be rated for 4.4 CFM / 90 PSI .

I am going to look for a 3/4 drive breaker bar, extension and socket.
Unfortunately, the nearby HF and Sears don't have everything .

I guess that I should try heating the bolt and use the bar method but am wondering if the heat would damage the rubber dampener part of the pulley or seals . Any recommendations on heating it are appreciated
Oxy-fuel (oxy acetylene or oxy propane). You can get the bolt really hot really quickly without damaging anything around it.

I'd try tightening it a bit, then loosening, go back and forth a few times with your impact gun. Then squirt on some penetrating oil, let it soak in, torch it, put some more penetrating oil on it when it is still hot, and let that soak in. Then try the impact again.

I usually repeat this cycle 2-3 times and it works eventually almost every time.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:01 PM   #16
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That's how I did my Accord, except sans torch. I'd imagine the torch would also help liquify whatever loctite may be on the crank bolt?
Yea, either that or the metal expansion breaks its bond. Either way, the right tool for the job saves knuckles lol.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:34 PM   #17
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You wouldn't heat a bolt to loosen it, you'd heat whatever the bolt is threaded into.

You'd heat the "nut".

Unless you can't?
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by LTC8K6 View Post
You wouldn't heat a bolt to loosen it, you'd heat whatever the bolt is threaded into.

You'd heat the "nut".

Unless you can't?
Ideally you hit the outside threads, yes, but in cases like this you'd have to head up the crank through the delicate crank pulley, and sadness would ensue.

It seems to be quite effective to heat up the bolt, just wait until it cools down a bit before trying to break it loose.

I was exactly that skeptical until it worked great for me a couple times.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:23 PM   #19
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Yes, that bolt REALLY sucks to get off.

Pulley holding tool, breaker bars, and high quality 1/2"+ extensions works for me. I sheared an adapter before I got it off, of course.

Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RE-pzP8g_x4
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:17 PM   #20
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Yea definitely don't want to heat crank, but I guess repeated heat/cool cycle of bolt itself breaks it free.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:38 PM   #21
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It's what I called the bitch bolt. You need the pulley tool a breaker bar and at least a 6 foot pipe. When I changed my timing belt I am guessing I had to put 1200-1300 ft lbs on it before it finally broke. Good luck.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:04 AM   #22
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I find a 3/4" drive or 1" drive breaker bar(NOT RATCHET) with a 4-5' pipe for a cheater bar works great.
i have a 98 civic. i ponied up for the 50mm tool to pull the pulley, and all i used was a 24" breaker bar with a 4 foot piece of 1.5" galvanized conduit on the handle. was cake. its harder to get back on tho, since you have to torque to spec then turn 90 degrees more. the tool made that easier as well, the first couple times i did it without the 50mm tool, it wasnt much fun.

i dont recommend the starter bump.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:22 AM   #23
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You guys will laugh at my luck.

Years ago I bought a JDM Prelude motor to swap into my Accord. That pulley came off with a Makita electric impact gun. No fuss at all. I'm still a bit dumbfounded by how easy it was.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:31 AM   #24
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Ideally you hit the outside threads, yes, but in cases like this you'd have to head up the crank through the delicate crank pulley, and sadness would ensue.

It seems to be quite effective to heat up the bolt, just wait until it cools down a bit before trying to break it loose.

I was exactly that skeptical until it worked great for me a couple times.
yup, heating the one piece seems to help cause enough movement to loose stuck bolts up

done it many times

DO NOT USE A TORCH SHORTLY AFTER PB BLASTER

and heaven ofrbid dont spray PB on it while the torch is on. a friend of mine almost burnt my face off doing that shit. after I got up off teh floor(where i had ducked to, to avoid the mushroom cloud) goes, "oh shit this stuff is flammable??"
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Old 04-30-2012, 12:22 PM   #25
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yup, heating the one piece seems to help cause enough movement to loose stuck bolts up

done it many times

DO NOT USE A TORCH SHORTLY AFTER PB BLASTER

and heaven ofrbid dont spray PB on it while the torch is on. a friend of mine almost burnt my face off doing that shit. after I got up off teh floor(where i had ducked to, to avoid the mushroom cloud) goes, "oh shit this stuff is flammable??"
Good lord! No aerosol around heat for sure!! Kroil in a squirt bottle FTW.
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