Go Back   AnandTech Forums > Social > The Garage

Forums
· Hardware and Technology
· CPUs and Overclocking
· Motherboards
· Video Cards and Graphics
· Memory and Storage
· Power Supplies
· Cases & Cooling
· SFF, Notebooks, Pre-Built/Barebones PCs
· Networking
· Peripherals
· General Hardware
· Highly Technical
· Computer Help
· Home Theater PCs
· Consumer Electronics
· Digital and Video Cameras
· Mobile Devices & Gadgets
· Audio/Video & Home Theater
· Software
· Software for Windows
· All Things Apple
· *nix Software
· Operating Systems
· Programming
· PC Gaming
· Console Gaming
· Distributed Computing
· Security
· Social
· Off Topic
· Politics and News
· Discussion Club
· Love and Relationships
· The Garage
· Health and Fitness
· Home and Garden
· Merchandise and Shopping
· For Sale/Trade
· Hot Deals with Free Stuff/Contests
· Black Friday 2014
· Forum Issues
· Technical Forum Issues
· Personal Forum Issues
· Suggestion Box
· Moderator Resources
· Moderator Discussions
   

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-01-2010, 08:24 PM   #1
leeland
Diamond Member
 
leeland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,600
Default Synthetic vs Conventional motor oil question

OK I just got back from the local Auto Zone and the oil I always get isn't stocked anymore

Mobile extended 5000 mile stuff 5w-20

SO...I am taken back because I have used it for as long as I can remember and I had to pick a new oil...

I asked an attendant about some of them...and he turns to me and mentions Synthetic (which is obviously more expensive)...

I considered it since it is getting closer to winter and it would be easier on the engine starting in cold weather....

We talk a little more and he says...if you switch to Synthetic...you have to stick to it forever otherwise it does something to the engine (basically makes the engine leak oil) if I were to switch back to conventional at some point...

Something to do with the molecular make up of the oil...

Does that sounds right? I have not a clue with oil comparisons...
leeland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2010, 08:28 PM   #2
thescreensavers
Diamond Member
 
thescreensavers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Miami,FL
Posts: 9,873
Default

You can switch between the two when ever...

Castol GTX is great oil and its not too expensive.
__________________
Tech TV Tribute

WRB 2013 Subaru WRX Hatch
thescreensavers is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2010, 08:45 PM   #3
punjabiplaya
Diamond Member
 
punjabiplaya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 3,495
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thescreensavers View Post
You can switch between the two when ever...

Castol GTX is great oil and its not too expensive.
/top gear
great for cooking too apparently
__________________
'puter:
i5 750 - speed varies with season
cnps9900
p55-gd65
4GB Gskill Trident
2x 750GB Caviar Black + 2TB Caviar Green
BBQ

car:
2010 CBM Mazdaspeed3
punjabiplaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2010, 10:57 PM   #4
thescreensavers
Diamond Member
 
thescreensavers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Miami,FL
Posts: 9,873
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by punjabiplaya View Post
/top gear
great for cooking too apparently

__________________
Tech TV Tribute

WRB 2013 Subaru WRX Hatch
thescreensavers is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2010, 11:43 PM   #5
mwmorph
Diamond Member
 
mwmorph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fairbanks
Posts: 8,883
Default

Most of the top line synthetic oils are very close. You can feel confident going with
German Castrol Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Synpower
Mobil 1 Extended Life (15k mile)
and surprisingly Supertech Synthetic (Wal Mart brand, made by Shell)

You can switch between Synthetic and Conventional whenever, Synthetic can leak a bit more on older cars around tired, worn out seals, but its not too big a deal.
mwmorph is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 02:04 AM   #6
Eli
Super Moderator
Elite Member
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 50,005
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mwmorph View Post
Most of the top line synthetic oils are very close. You can feel confident going with
German Castrol Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Synpower
Mobil 1 Extended Life (15k mile)
and surprisingly Supertech Synthetic (Wal Mart brand, made by Shell)

You can switch between Synthetic and Conventional whenever, Synthetic can leak a bit more on older cars around tired, worn out seals, but its not too big a deal.
This.
__________________
http://www.bumblebeebatteries.com

2001 Honda Insight 5MT, MIMA #163P - 158,388 miles and counting as of 7/2011
Best Trip - 82.0MPG over 1200 miles
2001 Honda Insight 5MT - 450,000 miles and counting as of 2/2012 (Fiancee's)
Best Trip - 92.4MPG over 400 miles
2000 Honda Insight 5MT, MIMA #173P, BCM Gauge, OBDIIC&C Gauge, Upgraded 8Ah battery - 227,248 miles and counting as of 10/2011
Best Trip - 83.1mpg over 458mi
Eli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 08:58 AM   #7
WhoBeDaPlaya
Diamond Member
 
WhoBeDaPlaya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 6,149
Default

There's Pennzoil Ultra as well, which is supposed to be even better than the venerable Platinum.
I just (~1.5 months ago) switched over to it from M1 5W20 synth and will be doing a UOA on my next oil change.
__________________
Main : Silverstone TJ09S - 4770K @ 4.6GHz - Z87-GD65 - 32GB Ballistix 1866 CL9 - 2x XFX DD 290 @ 290X - X-Fi Ti Fatal1ty Pro - BFG EX-1000 - Kuhler 920 - 6x NF-P12 - 840 Pro 512GB - F3 1TB - WH16NS40 - Logitech G19S - 2x Klipsch Promedia 2.1
HTPC : CM Stacker 830 - FX 8320 - M5A99FX Pro R2 - 8GB Ballistix 1600 CL8 - XFX 5670 - SeaSonic S12G-750 - 6x CF-V12HP - 16x HGST 5K4000 4TB - DW1640
Laptop : Clevo w230ss - i7 4810MQ - 16GB 1600 CL9 - GTX 860M - M500 240GB - HGST Travelstar 7200 1TB
WhoBeDaPlaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 09:45 AM   #8
Bartman39
Super Moderator
Elite Member
For Sale/Trade
The Garage
 
Bartman39's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Just moved to a tent down by the river (van got repo'd)
Posts: 8,136
Default

My take on it is no should not be an issue switching back but what I have always understood is more important to stay with the same weight of oil (10-30wt, 5-20wt and such) I run Royal Purple 15-40wt in my Duramax with service interval at 10K miles and do oil analysis each change with no issues and I dont hammer it all the time but it doesnt complain when I do...

But note that early steel and cast iron ringed engines did start to use oil if switched back and forth... Not a lot but did see it first hand but all newer engines use moly or chrome type rings are not affected (note the crosshatch procedure or should say honing procedure is different as well)... Only issue is the leaking as mentioned and thats is more with older engines that have been using conventional oil and switched to synthetics as they tend to clean the the varnish build up on seals and even soften gaskets...
__________________
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics. (Mark Twain)


HEATWARE

Last edited by Bartman39; 10-02-2010 at 10:02 AM.
Bartman39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 09:51 AM   #9
Gibson486
Lifer
 
Gibson486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 18,380
Default

Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...
__________________
Well, now I am going to be flamed out of existance.

There's your sugar...and there's your culture.

"Getting enough idiots together to demonstrate consensus on a ludicrous idea in order to help justify it is for Congress not real life... "-MWilding

Gibson486 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 09:58 AM   #10
HarryLui
Golden Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,254
Default

Most people don't know what the different is with synthetic and conventional.

Most people don't need synthetic oil either.
__________________
85 GLH
94 855

My Heatware
HarryLui is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 09:58 AM   #11
WhoBeDaPlaya
Diamond Member
 
WhoBeDaPlaya's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 6,149
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibson486 View Post
Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...
Best bet would be to check BITOG. Someone there has probably done a UOA on it.
__________________
Main : Silverstone TJ09S - 4770K @ 4.6GHz - Z87-GD65 - 32GB Ballistix 1866 CL9 - 2x XFX DD 290 @ 290X - X-Fi Ti Fatal1ty Pro - BFG EX-1000 - Kuhler 920 - 6x NF-P12 - 840 Pro 512GB - F3 1TB - WH16NS40 - Logitech G19S - 2x Klipsch Promedia 2.1
HTPC : CM Stacker 830 - FX 8320 - M5A99FX Pro R2 - 8GB Ballistix 1600 CL8 - XFX 5670 - SeaSonic S12G-750 - 6x CF-V12HP - 16x HGST 5K4000 4TB - DW1640
Laptop : Clevo w230ss - i7 4810MQ - 16GB 1600 CL9 - GTX 860M - M500 240GB - HGST Travelstar 7200 1TB
WhoBeDaPlaya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 10:01 AM   #12
Bartman39
Super Moderator
Elite Member
For Sale/Trade
The Garage
 
Bartman39's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Just moved to a tent down by the river (van got repo'd)
Posts: 8,136
Default

NAPA synthetic is made by Valvoline... Same stuff but is a kinda older formula but for the price a good product...
__________________
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics. (Mark Twain)


HEATWARE
Bartman39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 12:00 PM   #13
Marlin1975
Lifer
 
Marlin1975's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: aaaaa
Posts: 21,503
Default

Pretty much any name brand oil will go a good 5000miles in most cars and most syns can do 10k+ as well. Check owners manual and many now say 7500miles on regular oil is fine.
Now if you have a turbo, tow a lot of heavy weight, air cooled, etc... then syn oil with a little sooner change will work better.

I buy what ever name brand is cheapest and meets the specs of the car/truck I am working on. Never had any engine fail due to the name brand oil used. I have broken down hundreds of motors. Only time oil caused an issue is when it had about 30k on it and was more solid then liquid.
__________________
Quote:
Originally posted by: JS80
Even I will admit if it were under Bush I would find an excuse to support it even if I thought it was a waste of money.
Quote:
Originally posted by: spidey07
No muslims, no athiests, no gays.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey07 View Post
I'm proud to be a racist now. VERY proud.
Marlin1975 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 11:50 PM   #14
leeland
Diamond Member
 
leeland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,600
Default

I have always used the correct Oil weight in my vehicles and used Bosch filters (which I feel comfortable with)...

In the past on an older Civic I had used Synthetic oil in the winter and it worked out well with starting and in general.

I always try to do my own oil changes as I personally don't trust the quick lube places and am too damn cheap to take it to the dealer for a change.

Is it safe to assume that either (A) this attendant was just a dumb ass and didn't know what he was talking about or (B) he was just trying to jack up sales?

Is it feasible to assume that in cold weather that a synthetic motor oil will perform better in cold weather with starting?

Also, does synthetic oil last longer than conventional oil? On our Honda Mini Van it has an 'oil' sensor that gives a percentage on the oil and indicates when it should be changed.

The manual states something every 10,000 miles or 6 months but I always go by that gauge...which obviously is variable.

Thanks,
Lee
leeland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2010, 11:54 PM   #15
CraigRT
Lifer
 
CraigRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 31,443
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibson486 View Post
Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...
It's great. Ashland product. Think Valvoline. Also great.
__________________
My Cannondale
My Specialized
CraigRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2010, 06:53 AM   #16
Marlin1975
Lifer
 
Marlin1975's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: aaaaa
Posts: 21,503
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by leeland View Post
I have always used the correct Oil weight in my vehicles and used Bosch filters (which I feel comfortable with)...

In the past on an older Civic I had used Synthetic oil in the winter and it worked out well with starting and in general.

I always try to do my own oil changes as I personally don't trust the quick lube places and am too damn cheap to take it to the dealer for a change.

Is it safe to assume that either (A) this attendant was just a dumb ass and didn't know what he was talking about or (B) he was just trying to jack up sales?

Is it feasible to assume that in cold weather that a synthetic motor oil will perform better in cold weather with starting?

Also, does synthetic oil last longer than conventional oil? On our Honda Mini Van it has an 'oil' sensor that gives a percentage on the oil and indicates when it should be changed.

The manual states something every 10,000 miles or 6 months but I always go by that gauge...which obviously is variable.

Thanks,
Lee

I vote A as I doubt he gets paid anymore if you buy syn vs regular.

Syn can last longer if the car is in good running condition. If it over heats, leaks a lot, etc... then the oil probable need to be chaged early as the oil might not break down but there could be a lot of "trash" in it.
Example I do 10k (give or take) on my CTS and Corvette. My truck gets regular oil and that is 5000miles or every year.

Syn can flow better at very cold temps. But so does regular 5w30 oil. Now if you live in the North or Canada where temps get very cold then the differance would be enough to warrant using syn. But I live in VA and use regular in my truck and have no issues.
__________________
Quote:
Originally posted by: JS80
Even I will admit if it were under Bush I would find an excuse to support it even if I thought it was a waste of money.
Quote:
Originally posted by: spidey07
No muslims, no athiests, no gays.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey07 View Post
I'm proud to be a racist now. VERY proud.
Marlin1975 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2010, 10:35 AM   #17
smitbret
Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pocatello, ID
Posts: 2,783
Default

You can safely switch from conventional to synthetic at any time. However, when going from conventional to synthetic, you may get some oil consumption and burning because as an engine ages, micro grooves form on your cylinder walls. Conventional motor oil will fill those grooves and maintain a tight seal. When you switch to a slicker synthetic with more advanced detergents, those grooves get cleaned out and you're left with a (performance-wise) harmless amount of oil consumption. I often switch my cars over to a synthetic after about 80,000 miles and have had no trouble at all. The intervals for oil changes with synthetic are about 2.5 times as long.

I also switch to a lighter weight oil in the winter, cuz it flows better and quicker especially during a cold start. Heavier weights are better in the summer because contaminants like dust are held in suspension better by a heavier oil.

Moving back and forth between weights, types and brands is fine so long as you are changing the oil and filter when you do it. You may get some smoke initially, but it is normal and will not harm your car.
smitbret is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #18
skyking
Lifer
 
skyking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 16,572
Default

Not a synthetic fan myself. I prefer new oil more often for the dollar but that is an opinion and you know about those.
__________________
Heat

skyking is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2010, 02:36 PM   #19
Meghan54
Diamond Member
 
Meghan54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Rollin' Rollin' Rollin', keep them doggies rollin'
Posts: 5,677
Default

Our '02 Blazer, with 214K miles on it, has had syn almost exclusively since its initial oil change at 500 miles. (Started with Mobil 1, also Pennzoil Plat, and the last couple of years, Royal Purple.)

Has it prolonged its life? Maybe, maybe not....but I think it did help with a situation I faced a few months ago.

Our aforementioned Blazer had been running slightly hotter lately with poorer gas mileage. Figured was maybe the coolant leak, very minor, from the intake manifold---a common problem that's rather easily dealt with.

So, went to ATL to pick up a boat. Just after picking up the boat and hitting the interstate, the truck began exhibiting the inability to run beyond 1500 rpm's......any more then it'd act like it was choking down. Began to run a LOT hotter....over 220F. Check engine light also came on......found out later it was the MAF sensor saying low air flow.

What was supposed to be 3.5 hour drive turned into 12 hours. Guess I should have gotten a tow, but the cost of a flatbed truck for over 3 hours and 300 miles.....hated to think of that! So, I nursed it along all evening and night.

At one stop to let it cool and just to give myself a break, checked the oil. When I pulled the dipstick, I saw smoke coming from the dipstick tube. Not exactly good.

Turns out the cats were almost completely plugged....nothing that an $800 repair couldn't take care of. But I do credit the RP oil for keeping itself together and now a couple of months after the fact, the engine is no worse for the ordeal.

True, an extreme example, but in this instance, it did its job. If it'd been a crankcase of dino oil during this, hate to think what would have happened.
__________________
Heat
Ebay
"As soon as men decide that all means are permitted to fight an evil, then their good becomes indistinguishable from the evil that they set out to destroy."
-Christopher Dawson
Meghan54 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 02:52 AM   #20
BUTCH1
Lifer
 
BUTCH1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 14,283
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meghan54 View Post
Our '02 Blazer, with 214K miles on it, has had syn almost exclusively since its initial oil change at 500 miles. (Started with Mobil 1, also Pennzoil Plat, and the last couple of years, Royal Purple.)

Has it prolonged its life? Maybe, maybe not....but I think it did help with a situation I faced a few months ago.

Our aforementioned Blazer had been running slightly hotter lately with poorer gas mileage. Figured was maybe the coolant leak, very minor, from the intake manifold---a common problem that's rather easily dealt with.

So, went to ATL to pick up a boat. Just after picking up the boat and hitting the interstate, the truck began exhibiting the inability to run beyond 1500 rpm's......any more then it'd act like it was choking down. Began to run a LOT hotter....over 220F. Check engine light also came on......found out later it was the MAF sensor saying low air flow.

What was supposed to be 3.5 hour drive turned into 12 hours. Guess I should have gotten a tow, but the cost of a flatbed truck for over 3 hours and 300 miles.....hated to think of that! So, I nursed it along all evening and night.

At one stop to let it cool and just to give myself a break, checked the oil. When I pulled the dipstick, I saw smoke coming from the dipstick tube. Not exactly good.

Turns out the cats were almost completely plugged....nothing that an $800 repair couldn't take care of. But I do credit the RP oil for keeping itself together and now a couple of months after the fact, the engine is no worse for the ordeal.

True, an extreme example, but in this instance, it did its job. If it'd been a crankcase of dino oil during this, hate to think what would have happened.
If it's the same intake manifold problem that GM had with some of their V6's it's not exactly minor, expect to pay $500-700 for it to be replaced and some caused coolant to leak into the engine ruining them. Fel-pro makes a replacement gasket that solves the issue if your gonna do it yourself..
__________________
Would Jesus microwave a burrito so hot that he himself
could not eat it?? Homer Simpson.
BUTCH1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 03:04 PM   #21
soccerballtux
Lifer
 
soccerballtux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,345
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin1975 View Post
Pretty much any name brand oil will go a good 5000miles in most cars and most syns can do 10k+ as well. Check owners manual and many now say 7500miles on regular oil is fine.
Now if you have a turbo, tow a lot of heavy weight, air cooled, etc... then syn oil with a little sooner change will work better.

I buy what ever name brand is cheapest and meets the specs of the car/truck I am working on. Never had any engine fail due to the name brand oil used. I have broken down hundreds of motors. Only time oil caused an issue is when it had about 30k on it and was more solid then liquid.
I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.
__________________
FX-8310 @ 4.3Ghz || Gigabyte 970A-UD4P + 32GB DDR3-1600 || Crucial ARC-100 240GB || AMD Radeon HD 7849.5 || Soyo 24" PMVA Heatware
soccerballtux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 03:06 PM   #22
CraigRT
Lifer
 
CraigRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 31,443
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerballtux View Post
I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.
There is a recent oil analysis on the BITOG site of a 3.5L Impala running 11.5K miles on Pennzoil conventional, and it looked perfectly fine.

Oil is not what it used to be!
__________________
My Cannondale
My Specialized
CraigRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 09:51 AM   #23
WackyDan
Diamond Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,048
Default

I think what most are missing here... is what is the age of the car you are driving?

Synthetic oils are noted for not playing as nice with older motors... Kinda like the whole ethanol use in older motors. The gaskets and such were not made with synthetic in mind. Now, I'm sure some of the newer synthetics are formulated for use with older motors...But it your car is ten years old, I'd stick with conventional. If your car is brand new, by all means use full synthetic.

I have a 98 Dakota... I will never run synthetic in it. Have had it since new, and it is not worth having major gasket issues by switching.

Wife has an 05 malibu. Could probably switch to Synthetic, but for her driving, probably not worth the added cost. ( I buy name brand by the gallon on sale anyway. ).

So... I think the most glaring thing you omitted here was the year of your vehicle.
__________________
Lenovo M57p, T61 and W510 ThinkPads.
2008 Can Am Spyder with Givi side and top hard cases. The ultimate touring setup.
WackyDan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 10:11 AM   #24
Marlin1975
Lifer
 
Marlin1975's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: aaaaa
Posts: 21,503
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by soccerballtux View Post
I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.

No you don;t, at least not any REAL differance.


If you put your car on a dyno with oil that has 5000miles and then change it to new I bet there be no differance.
__________________
Quote:
Originally posted by: JS80
Even I will admit if it were under Bush I would find an excuse to support it even if I thought it was a waste of money.
Quote:
Originally posted by: spidey07
No muslims, no athiests, no gays.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey07 View Post
I'm proud to be a racist now. VERY proud.
Marlin1975 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2010, 10:16 AM   #25
LTC8K6
Lifer
 
LTC8K6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Under an American chemtrail
Posts: 19,064
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WackyDan View Post
I think what most are missing here... is what is the age of the car you are driving?

Synthetic oils are noted for not playing as nice with older motors... Kinda like the whole ethanol use in older motors. The gaskets and such were not made with synthetic in mind. Now, I'm sure some of the newer synthetics are formulated for use with older motors...But it your car is ten years old, I'd stick with conventional. If your car is brand new, by all means use full synthetic.

I have a 98 Dakota... I will never run synthetic in it. Have had it since new, and it is not worth having major gasket issues by switching.

Wife has an 05 malibu. Could probably switch to Synthetic, but for her driving, probably not worth the added cost. ( I buy name brand by the gallon on sale anyway. ).

So... I think the most glaring thing you omitted here was the year of your vehicle.
You 1998 Dakota should be fine with synthetic oil though. It was popular by then, iirc.
__________________
no offense, but does he have some sort of mental dissability? -nick1985

Brainwashed, mentally unstable, and stupid Intel user, screwed by Intel and located directly under a chemtrail.

Don't be a moron! Buy AMD!
LTC8K6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Alpha 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.