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Old 07-13-2012, 02:53 PM   #26
hydroponik
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Well to follow up on my progress, the VC-RF fan is too wide in diameter to fit inside the stock heatsink. I tried spraying some wd-40 on the stock fan, but it's still making noise.

I guess it's back to the drawing board.

I still want to pursue the first option of just replacing the fan, however in this day in age, it will be random trial and error ordering and returning fans from the internet.

If I were to just replace the whole thing, how does the heatsink get removed from the mobo? I see screws on the top, however I did not take the whole thing out since this was just a trial to see if I could even get the fan to fit.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:16 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcanedeath View Post
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835192006

the above should work it's very similar to the VC-RE
the spacing on the holes may be a bit wide so it could be hard to put in the push pins but not imposible and if you want to make it easier you can always file the holes to make them slightly larger.
Is there enough clearance for the video card?
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:27 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydroponik View Post
Is there enough clearance for the video card?
I belive so this apears to be the same height as the VC-RE
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:54 AM   #29
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http://www.geeks.com/products.asp?cat=VCD

Check that out, there's some circular VGA cooler fans that might fit a chipset.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:28 AM   #30
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Thanks for the help but I think I'm just going to upgrade. This system is pretty much obsolete at this point. Going to head to my local microcenter and just get an i5 3570 + as rock z77 extreme.

On a side note, is memory important for performance anymore or would any kit do for this system?
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #31
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2133 MHz memory speed seems to be the sweet spot for Ivy Bridge. 1600 is still perfectly fine. If you are going to MicroCenter, get the Samsung Green DDR3 1600 8GB (4GBx2) kit. It's 30nm low profile RAM 1.35v. It overclocks very well.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:50 PM   #32
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Crap, I already bought a g.skill ripjaw x from amazon since I had a gift card I didn't use yet. It seems to be compatible with the board, hope it's ok since I'm not gonna go crazy with the OCing...
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:36 PM   #33
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Well I was able to change the order on Amazon, hopefully these sticks work with the board as they're not listed as supported on the Asrock site...
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bladedwing View Post
Your chances of finding a VC-RE are slim...not quite as slim as getting killed by a meteor, but pretty damn close . I tried looking everywhere.

You could conceivably use a VC-RF, however, you must be aware that the height of the fan can be too high, depending on the video card you use. The stock DFI fan measures 11 mm with guard, while the VC-RF measures 14 without a guard...I had thought that it wouldn't make a dif (after all, it's only 3 mm I figured...I was wrong) you have enough room to fit the AGP in and all the rear pins will go into the slot, but not all the way. You can try this though and see if it works.

However, getting back to your question...here are some better alternatives I did:

a) Cheapest/Fastest/Ugliest Hackjob: Hopefully you still have the heatsink in good condition. Unscrew the fan from the heatsink (don't take the heatsink off the mobo, just unscrew the fan from the heatsink...it's held to heatsink with 3 screws). Be sure to keep those screws. Take the fan, go to your local computer store and buy a cheap VGA or chipset heatsink/fan kit that has a fan in similar width -- I think stock is 40 mm or 35, I can't remember. Anyway, take your new chipset kit, unscrew the fan off it. Throw away the new heatsink, since it has no fan now (or keep it if you think you have a future purpose for it). If you are lucky, the bolts of the new fan will line up with your stock DFI heatsink and you can screw the new fan into it. If not...electrical tape/super glue. Hackjob done. I didn't do this as I threw away my heatsink before I realized I could have done that. I wish I did though cause it would have saved a lot of pain-in-the-ass time.

b) Better way/A little bit of work: You easily get a Vantec Iceberq (CCB-A1C). Get the copper one. Even though the DFI is aluminum, the fan on this is smaller than stock, so you want copper to compensate so you at least kind of get similar cooling to the stock. Here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...03&Tpk=CCB-A1C. Note: There is no yellow speed sensing wire on this one. Here is where the work comes in: The diameter from pin to pin is 53ish mm, while DFI is 52ish mm. So you may have to do one of these: take either a drill and drill the holes just a bit wider, or a use a round locksmith file and file the extra 0.25 mm off each side to make them closer. I'm pretty sure you can try to squeeze it in if you don't want to drill or file, but didn't do that cause I like things to fit perfectly...but that's just me. It will fit just fine height-wise...if not, just take off the fan guard, as measures 10-11 mm, which is same as stock. I tried it. Didnt' like it didn't have the yellow sensing wire, so I ended returning it and doing the alternative #3.

3) What I did (and the most pain in the ass thing to do): Buy a Vantec Iceberq 4: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835110106. Throw the fan guard away. It will measure 10 mm high, which is perfect. Then do the same thing as above (pins are 54 mm apart...must be 52 mm). Use a metal file and/or locksmith round file. However, since you are filing away a little more metal that the alternative above, I found the springs easily fall through the enlarged holes, so get a couple 3mm metal washers so the springs don't fall through (found at any hobby store for $0.10 each). After than then you have to use a drill or metal file away one small area that interferes with the capacitor.

In my case I liked the way the fan guard looked, so I just xacto knifed away the plastic that got in the way of the card, so I can keep it looking good:





And area you have to file away to get around the capacitor.



A lot of work if you do this, but it's a good heatsink though...big, copper and blue LED! Keeps it nice looking and cool...even though it's a lot of work for such an old board. But I still like it.

Hope this helps.
Just curious, for otption 2 (Vantec Iceberq (CCB-A1C)), since it does not have a speed sensing wire, how loud is this as full speed? Quieter than stock i hope?
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:20 PM   #35
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Just wanted to let everyone know, the Vantec Iceberq (CCB-A1C) cooler works with this motherboard, but you have to remove the copper top fan guard. The holes are slightly bigger than what's on the board, but you can definitely fudge it to make it fit.

I downloaded CPUID hardware monitor so I can check the temps, does anyone know which sensor is the NB?

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Old 02-05-2013, 07:47 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magic Carpet View Post
I had a similar problem with my NF4 mobo. I just ended up putting a bigger heatsink on it, minus the fan. Has been working fine since (3 years now).
Yeah, I did the same thing. Only I hated the DFI board. Ended up selling it, but I kept the Zalman ZM-NB47J cooler. It's pretty. I have a lot of old parts resting in boxes in my office.

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