Your chances of finding a VC-RE are slim...not quite as slim as getting killed by a meteor, but pretty damn close
. I tried looking everywhere.
You could conceivably use a VC-RF, however, you must be aware that the height of the fan can
be too high, depending on the video card you use. The stock DFI fan measures 11 mm with guard, while the VC-RF measures 14 without a guard...I had thought that it wouldn't make a dif (after all, it's only 3 mm I figured...I was wrong) you have enough room to fit the AGP in and all the rear pins will go into the slot, but not all the way. You can try this though and see if it works.
However, getting back to your question...here are some better alternatives I did:
a) Cheapest/Fastest/Ugliest Hackjob: Hopefully you still have the heatsink in good condition. Unscrew the fan from the heatsink (don't take the heatsink off the mobo, just unscrew the fan from the heatsink...it's held to heatsink with 3 screws). Be sure to keep those screws. Take the fan, go to your local computer store and buy a cheap VGA or chipset heatsink/fan kit that has a fan in similar width -- I think stock is 40 mm or 35, I can't remember. Anyway, take your new chipset kit, unscrew the fan off it. Throw away the new heatsink, since it has no fan now (or keep it if you think you have a future purpose for it). If you are lucky, the bolts of the new fan will line up with your stock DFI heatsink and you can screw the new fan into it. If not...electrical tape/super glue. Hackjob done. I didn't do this as I threw away my heatsink before I realized I could have done that. I wish I did though cause it would have saved a lot
of pain-in-the-ass time.
b) Better way/A little bit of work: You easily get a Vantec Iceberq (CCB-A1C). Get the copper
one. Even though the DFI is aluminum, the fan on this is smaller than stock, so you want copper to compensate so you at least kind of get similar cooling to the stock. Here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...03&Tpk=CCB-A1C
. Note: There is no yellow speed sensing wire on this one. Here is where the work comes in: The diameter from pin to pin is 53ish mm, while DFI is 52ish mm. So you may
have to do one of these: take either a drill and drill the holes just a bit wider, or a use a round locksmith file and file the extra 0.25 mm off each side to make them closer. I'm pretty sure you can try to squeeze it in if you don't want to drill or file, but didn't do that cause I like things to fit perfectly...but that's just me. It will fit just fine height-wise...if not, just take off the fan guard, as measures 10-11 mm, which is same as stock. I tried it. Didnt' like it didn't have the yellow sensing wire, so I ended returning it and doing the alternative #3.
3) What I did (and the most pain in the ass thing to do): Buy a Vantec Iceberq 4: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835110106
. Throw the fan guard away. It will measure 10 mm high, which is perfect. Then do the same thing as above (pins are 54 mm apart...must be 52 mm). Use a metal file and/or locksmith round file. However, since you are filing away a little more metal that the alternative above, I found the springs easily fall through the enlarged holes, so get a couple 3mm metal washers so the springs don't fall through (found at any hobby store for $0.10 each). After than then you have to use a drill or metal file away one small area that interferes with the capacitor.
In my case I liked the way the fan guard looked, so I just xacto knifed away the plastic that got in the way of the card, so I can keep it looking good:
And area you have to file away to get around the capacitor.
A lot of work if you do this, but it's a good heatsink though...big, copper and blue LED! Keeps it nice looking and cool...even though it's a lot of work for such an old board. But I still like it.
Hope this helps.