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Old 01-23-2013, 02:56 PM   #26
jaedaliu
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Originally Posted by OutHouse View Post
the accident was totally her fault, she hit black ice and spun then hit the ass end of a pickup.
wow, I'll bet nobody was expecting that to be the cause of the accident. Good advice in this thread. Don't feel obligated to accept the initial offer from the insurance company if it isn't fair.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:10 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by jtvang125 View Post
And you know what happened cause you were there right?

It's very possible that it was her fault. I've been in a similar accident where the other driver ran a red and I clipped her rear quarter panel. But since I hit her on the side it must be my fault right?
I never said I knew what happened, some other posters here made some assumptions from facts they pulled out of their ass.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:51 PM   #28
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I'm willing to bet she'll get what she owes + more. Don't tell the adjuster how much you owe at all.
If the vehicle is to be totaled; they will ask for the title to be delivered to the insurance adjuster.

The title will indicate that there is a lien.
The adjuster will contact the lien holder for the payoff.

Given that the OP is in Colorado, I have been through this.

Also, it is not advisable to promote fraud
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:45 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by EagleKeeper View Post
If the vehicle is to be totaled; they will ask for the title to be delivered to the insurance adjuster.

The title will indicate that there is a lien.
The adjuster will contact the lien holder for the payoff.

Given that the OP is in Colorado, I have been through this.

Also, it is not advisable to promote fraud
It's not fraud. When my sister totalled her Explorer, she got more than was even financed. Same thing with a friend of mine and his Mazda 6, he beat the price by $200.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #30
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OP....If you've done any major repairs/maintenance in the past year, provide the claims adjuster the invoices to justify the highest possible value of the car...

When my Altima was totaled I was told that I would receive 80% of the retail value of the car...but in fact I got more, considering it had 195k miles, because I provided documentation of $2000 in repairs for the year prior to the accident....I got retail value for a 1999 Altima (with 195k miles it was VERY low) + $1000...
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:42 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by EagleKeeper View Post
If the vehicle is to be totaled; they will ask for the title to be delivered to the insurance adjuster.

The title will indicate that there is a lien.
The adjuster will contact the lien holder for the payoff.

Given that the OP is in Colorado, I have been through this.

Also, it is not advisable to promote fraud
i dont get wh you'd think it was fraud.

the amount owed on a car, isnt necessarily its fair market value. they will pay you what it will cost to get another of that car, not what you owe on it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:22 PM   #32
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^ for update
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:24 PM   #33
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I'd be (relatively, all things considered) happy with that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:27 PM   #34
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I'd be (relatively, all things considered) happy with that.
I am, they didnt low ball me or were assholes.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:26 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by OutHouse View Post
****UPDATE 24 Jan*****

Got a call from the state farm total loss center. so yea they are totaling the car. I left my notes at work so off the top of my head it works out something like this.

NADA list it at 8100 (state farm uses the top rating for the car value)
-1200 for high mileage
-500 for no power windows/power locks
-500 for deductible

+400 for taxes
+50 for title swap

-5100 to credit union for pay off

something else i don't remember

all in all im getting a $1,700 check.
Err, are those numbers right? Cos 8100-1200-500-500+400+50-5100= 1250

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Old 01-25-2013, 06:31 AM   #36
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My daughter was in a accident 2 weeks ago, her fault. her matrix got fucked up but the pickup she hit had zero damage. cops were not called so no accident report. I Filed a claim with state farm and had the body shop come out and tow it to their shop. They called me back the next day and said the damage was $6,200 bucks. ouch...

car is a 2004 matrix and according to KBB worth about 7k. she owes 5K on it.

So my question is if the state farm decides to total it, what does that mean for her? does the car get junked and they pay her like 4K or something stupid?

Its my first time dealing with this so just wanting to know more about this process if the car does get classified as totaled.


****UPDATE 24 Jan*****

Got a call from the state farm total loss center. so yea they are totaling the car. I left my notes at work so off the top of my head it works out something like this.

NADA list it at 8100 (state farm uses the top rating for the car value)
-1200 for high mileage
-500 for no power windows/power locks
-500 for deductible

+400 for taxes
+50 for title swap

-5100 to credit union for pay off

something else i don't remember

all in all im getting a $1,700 check.

Guy at work is selling his 97 Honda civic coupe dx with 275K miles for $1500 so guess what car my kid is getting....

Now its a waiting game to see how much her insurance is going up or if they knock her off my policy.

why are you getting your daughter a 15 year old car with nearly 300k miles on it? Honda or not, its old, and by todays standards un safe.

Shouldn't you be looking at cars around 7 grand? The previous car had a loan, why the sudden change?
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:34 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by michal1980 View Post
why are you getting your daughter a 15 year old car with nearly 300k miles on it? Honda or not, its old, and by todays standards un safe.

Shouldn't you be looking at cars around 7 grand? The previous car had a loan, why the sudden change?
I'll never get why people buy their kids shit unsafe cars. Hell shes safe because the first one wasnt so bad.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:01 AM   #38
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Here in pa, If the damage to the car is about 60% of what its worth they total it. And usually insurance will pay the lowest they can. So my guess is nada value instead of kbb or whichever is lower.

Good thing she is safe. Hell my dad one time bought me a 98 3000 gt that had 117k miles on it. This was in 2004 I think. I drove it and sold it with 202k miles on it.
I would see if you have any friends that go to auctions. You can pick up a nice Honda accord for 5-7k with a lot less mileage. It won't be new but it will be at least somewhat modern.

This is why I hate owing on a car. If I had more money I would pay more to have the amount payed off faster as I drive a lot and I'm assuming 3-4 years from now my car will have a lot of mileage.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:10 AM   #39
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the accident was totally her fault, she hit black ice and spun then hit the ass end of a pickup.
That is scary shit. Glad she is okay, that's all that really matters.

All the comments people are making about costs and insurance really ring true. My wife and I share a single vehicle. We both work from home, so we can get away with it, but it is often inconvenient. Still, it saves a ton of money, and on the odd occasion when we really need two cars, we rent one or take a cab.

Our oldest son showed little interest in driving when he turned 16 and we didn't push him. I'll be perfectly happy if none of my kids get behind the wheel until they are in their mid-20s... the rental places pick 25 for a reason.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:27 AM   #40
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U would not opt to get any car with 275k. Hell I might decline it if it was free. Possible items to replace could be more then total car worth.

I like the idea of not having another loan but that car isn't right for her.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:00 AM   #41
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U would not opt to get any car with 275k. Hell I might decline it if it was free. Possible items to replace could be more then total car worth.

I like the idea of not having another loan but that car isn't right for her.
i'd take it for free. to lemons it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:01 AM   #42
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I'll be perfectly happy if none of my kids get behind the wheel until they are in their mid-20s... the rental places pick 25 for a reason.
They pick 25 as its assumed that there's some driving experience under their belt. Just because you're older doesn't automatically mean you're better at something.

That's not the right mind set IMHO. Instead of not giving them time behind the wheel, when they DO need to drive, they'll be clueless.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:45 PM   #43
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why are you getting your daughter a 15 year old car with nearly 300k miles on it? Honda or not, its old, and by todays standards un safe.

Shouldn't you be looking at cars around 7 grand? The previous car had a loan, why the sudden change?
becuse i dont want anymore debt under my name.


You make it sound like the Honda is a death trap pinto or something. there is nothing wrong with driving a old car. and whats makes it unsafe in todays standards?
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:47 PM   #44
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why are you getting your daughter a 15 year old car with nearly 300k miles on it? Honda or not, its old, and by todays standards un safe.

Shouldn't you be looking at cars around 7 grand? The previous car had a loan, why the sudden change?
i guess you glazed over this part of my update?

Quote:
I left my notes at work so off the top of my head it works out something like this.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:42 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by OutHouse View Post
becuse i dont want anymore debt under my name.


You make it sound like the Honda is a death trap pinto or something. there is nothing wrong with driving a old car. and whats makes it unsafe in todays standards?
That's logical an all, but 275k miles is just going to be a lot of work, I would figure. Debt or not, you're going to be paying far more than that in the long run.

Personally, I would think you could find something suitable for 2000-3000 with half the miles, but maybe that's just me.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:09 PM   #46
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That's logical an all, but 275k miles is just going to be a lot of work, I would figure. Debt or not, you're going to be paying far more than that in the long run.

Personally, I would think you could find something suitable for 2000-3000 with half the miles, but maybe that's just me.
but its a honda. duh.

theres a point where being cheap starts to equal being stupid.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #47
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That's logical an all, but 275k miles is just going to be a lot of work, I would figure. Debt or not, you're going to be paying far more than that in the long run.

Personally, I would think you could find something suitable for 2000-3000 with half the miles, but maybe that's just me.
I was trying to steer him into this point as well.

Most used cars i've seen on CL, in person, or something that my friends buy and ask me to take a quick overview. These are the CHEAP end cars, something like a 275k civc, the 279k 98 ES300 i was looking at.

Normally will need least 2 tires ($50 each), timing belt job if it has one ($250-500). Brake job ($100) and w/e wear and tear items like tie rods, window motors, suspension work but all those you can just avoid (well not the tie rod).

You have a good amount of money from state farm, give your daughter a gift of $2000, so you have $4k for something like 03 focus, 05 altima or something with 125k. I think it will pay itself off in the end. PLUS nothing will be in your name and etc. She has a better base car.

I recently looked at 279k lexus and well... only way i would own it is if I was the one that drive from 150k to 279k so i know the history of it. That is worth more then anything else. While many cars cant go above 150-200k with little to no work, i just dont see many making it to 300k (unless its a diesel or truck).
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:11 PM   #48
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becuse i dont want anymore debt under my name.


You make it sound like the Honda is a death trap pinto or something. there is nothing wrong with driving a old car. and whats makes it unsafe in todays standards?

For example, theres only one model of civic that had abs brakes back then. geuss what, its not the DX.

only one set of front airbags.

suspension thats has hundreds of thousands of miles on it. brake lines with all those miles, brakes with all those miles.

penny wise, pound foolish.
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:31 PM   #49
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You talk about insurance, etc.

Check your state law and if you can, title the car in her name (you don't state her age that I could find) and have her get her own insurance (even if from the same company). Having it all in your name, opens you up to liability for her accidents in certain states.

I only bring this up, since you're replacing the car for her, you may be planning on having it in your name.

I'm not giving advice on what to do other than suggest you look in to how your state handles such things. I know in mine, it is beneficial for the parent to keep their name off both the title and the insurance policy if possible.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:30 AM   #50
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The door is not a 'crumple zone.'

There was likely a reinforcement bar running across the door that he hit above and subsequently destroyed.

What the fuck was this asshole driving? Seriously, that is not normal damage. If it was some piece of garbage lifted truck, I'd pursue reckless endangerment charges. Though no police report at the scene is...well, we won't go there. How old is your daughter? Anyone outside of high school should know better.
You would suggest suing someone you just ran into with your car? Classy.

OP: Sounds like things worked out, sans the possible rate increase.
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