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Old 12-19-2012, 07:08 AM   #1
brandon888
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Cool is auto overclock good for noobs like me ?

Guys i have I7 3930K with Asus p9x79 .... when used auto overclock on my Motherboard i got 4.3 GHZ and like 1.3 voltage .... im noob overclocker and i'm wondering how good is that auto overclock ? will it be stable ? Cause i have no idea how to overclock myself ;/ .... for me 4.3 GHZ is fine for 24/7 ... don't want more frequency but how about voltage and stability ? it will be fine with that auto overcklock ? if yes then i will leave it for 24/7 thank you all
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:25 AM   #2
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When I first got my i2500k and Asus P8P67 I manually selected everything and tried tweeking everything for the best.

After a few bios flashes and rebuilds and such... I don't care anymore and just set it to auto overclock. 4.4ghz 24/7. I'm sure I could bring the voltage down manually or maybe decrease the memory timings but does it really matter?

Auto 4.4 for me is better than manual 4.6 if I have to spend hours remembering and figuring it all out every time.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:29 AM   #3
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The auto overclock will give you an alright setting.. 1.3V is higher than you need for 4.3 Ghz, usually. It won't be a problem if your computer stays cool but you could just manually set it to stay at 4.3/4.4 Ghz, but tune down the voltage to say 1.25V and try it then. It'll run a bit cooler, save a little bit more power and last you longer with lower settings. The auto is good for a baseline, but then you take those settings and adjust it and you'll have a more efficient overclock.

Before you do anything though, find out where the motherboard reset is (or if it doesn't have one, know where the CMOS battery is located). This way you can always reset it back to default if it's stuck on boot. You just turn off the power supply switch in the back, hold down the reset/remove the battery for 10 seconds, then turn everything back on.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Insomniator View Post
When I first got my i2500k and Asus P8P67 I manually selected everything and tried tweeking everything for the best.

After a few bios flashes and rebuilds and such... I don't care anymore and just set it to auto overclock. 4.4ghz 24/7. I'm sure I could bring the voltage down manually or maybe decrease the memory timings but does it really matter?

Auto 4.4 for me is better than manual 4.6 if I have to spend hours remembering and figuring it all out every time.
+1 ....

yes i know 1.30-1.35 is absolute maximum voltage .... but i don't know how to set other variables that is a main problem .. so yes better for me lose extra 10-20 Watt then do something wrong and burn whole PC =D


Many people told me that with auto overckock cpu will overvolt .. but if it is safe and stable .. then i don't mind ... i know that for example with 1.35 votl people can hit like 4.7 GHZ
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:08 AM   #5
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The auto overclock will give you an alright setting.. 1.3V is higher than you need for 4.3 Ghz, usually. It won't be a problem if your computer stays cool but you could just manually set it to stay at 4.3/4.4 Ghz, but tune down the voltage to say 1.25V and try it then. It'll run a bit cooler, save a little bit more power and last you longer with lower settings. The auto is good for a baseline, but then you take those settings and adjust it and you'll have a more efficient overclock.

Before you do anything though, find out where the motherboard reset is (or if it doesn't have one, know where the CMOS battery is located). This way you can always reset it back to default if it's stuck on boot. You just turn off the power supply switch in the back, hold down the reset/remove the battery for 10 seconds, then turn everything back on.

em ... so you suggest me to set auto overlock and then just change voltage to 1.25 and frequency to 4.4-4.5 ya ? and all other settings keep same ?
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:26 AM   #6
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My personal feelings are that cpus are a lot less difficult to overclock then they used to be so why not take a few hours to read up on the subject and overclock "properly" instead of clicking a button and overvolting your chip.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:29 AM   #7
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I used to overclock manually and it was too much like hard work - tweaking to get it stable, then finding something that wouldn't run so tweaking again, etc...

When I got my i2500K I just hit the auto button, took two mins and gave me 4.3 which I decided was fine. It's been rock solid at that for the last two years.
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:34 PM   #8
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I used to overclock manually and it was too much like hard work - tweaking to get it stable, then finding something that wouldn't run so tweaking again, etc...

When I got my i2500K I just hit the auto button, took two mins and gave me 4.3 which I decided was fine. It's been rock solid at that for the last two years.
so if i keep voltage in safe range

http://ark.intel.com/products/63697/...up-to-3_80-GHz


0.600-1.350V


so it will not lose any lifespan yes ? sure if i also keep it cool below 67 C
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:45 PM   #9
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On my Intel® Core™ i5-3570K I hand overclocked it and than tried to test the auto and the voltage was just a little higher on the auto than what I got from hours of testing.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #10
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Its okay but boring, you can do better setting it manually.

Auto overclock settings are still better than they used to be.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:21 PM   #11
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Personally I don't like the auto overclock thingies much because they'll usually turn off all energy savings for no good reason really. But if you see voltage and multiplier dropping in idle in cpu-z it's no so bad I suppose.

And yes, voltage is probably a bit higher than needed for 4.3GHz but if you don't want to mess around with it anymore it's good enough, it's still low enough to be no real danger to longevity.

As for stability, to be sure you'd have to perform some stress tests (Prime95, Linx), check the Windows Event Viewer for any WHEA errors and most importantly, use your pc in the way you intend to and don't experience any bsod's, lockups or weird error messages.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:26 PM   #12
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Not trying to threadjack here but I am confused about voltages I am seeing -- I know HWMonitor is not very good for many voltages however when I run it I have both a

"CPU Vcore" and a "CPU" listed under voltages -- CPU Vcore is in the .9x-1.0x range typically but CPU can get up to 1.33v -- i7 2700k so 1.33 would be too high for Sandy. CPU-Z always reports the CPU Vcore reading from HWMonitor (or close) so if I see in HWMonitor 1.056 for "CPU Vcore" and 1.25 for whatever "CPU" is then CPU-Z will be in the 1.056 range.

Actual voltage is set to auto which I believe is max of 1.245v or thereabouts?
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:12 PM   #13
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Not trying to threadjack here but I am confused about voltages I am seeing -- I know HWMonitor is not very good for many voltages however when I run it I have both a

"CPU Vcore" and a "CPU" listed under voltages -- CPU Vcore is in the .9x-1.0x range typically but CPU can get up to 1.33v -- i7 2700k so 1.33 would be too high for Sandy. CPU-Z always reports the CPU Vcore reading from HWMonitor (or close) so if I see in HWMonitor 1.056 for "CPU Vcore" and 1.25 for whatever "CPU" is then CPU-Z will be in the 1.056 range.

Actual voltage is set to auto which I believe is max of 1.245v or thereabouts?
Get the latest CPU-Z and see what vCORE is reported. All the voltages cited in this thread are reasonable for Sandy Bridge (or I would think -- SB-E).

When I overclocked my i7-2600K, I used the ASUS TPU and BIOS overclocking features to get a baseline: It gave me a result of about 4.4Ghz and 1.4+V -- a voltage that seems a bit too high, if only for "Turbo" mode.

But the baseline was a good start, and I tweaked the BIOS manually to get 4.6Ghz-Turbo with load voltage of about 1.32V, or lightly-loaded at 1.35+V.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon888 View Post
Guys i have I7 3930K with Asus p9x79 .... when used auto overclock on my Motherboard i got 4.3 GHZ and like 1.3 voltage .... im noob overclocker and i'm wondering how good is that auto overclock ? will it be stable ? Cause i have no idea how to overclock myself ;/ .... for me 4.3 GHZ is fine for 24/7 ... don't want more frequency but how about voltage and stability ? it will be fine with that auto overcklock ? if yes then i will leave it for 24/7 thank you all
Congrats on finally wanted to get the full potential out of your CPU after yelling at us saying you will never oc ;^)

Once you OC youll never go back to stock. What heatsink you have in your pc? Stock?
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:47 AM   #15
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Congrats on finally wanted to get the full potential out of your CPU after yelling at us saying you will never oc ;^)

Once you OC youll never go back to stock. What heatsink you have in your pc? Stock?
oh well yes but im still noob so will use auto OC cause it's safe 4.3-4.4 is enough for me if i run 24/7 ....



now about heatsink.... now i have Arctic Cooling Freezer i30 .... and i know that it will not be enough to hande 4.3 under safe temps so i plan to get H70 or H80 .. but i read some reviews on amazon and people wrote that Corsair coolers sometimes broke and fluid from that cooler damaged whole system ;/ so idk ... but i like Crosair brand and im wondering how stable are thies water cooling Liquid CPU Coolers ?
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:01 AM   #16
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here you go ....











After 5 mins aida stress test i got 51 C temp but it is only 4.2 GHZ overclock ..... and also note that bus speed .. it's 126 :/ .. as i know it's better to change Multipiller to 42 for example and leave buss 100 mhz ... that auto OC looks strange ;/

Last edited by brandon888; 12-20-2012 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:34 AM   #17
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so if i keep voltage in safe range

http://ark.intel.com/products/63697/...up-to-3_80-GHz


0.600-1.350V


so it will not lose any lifespan yes ? sure if i also keep it cool below 67 C
There's never any guarantees but yes don't let it get to hot and don't give it too many volts and it should be ok. These days the chips get a much easier life as you don't need to disable all the power saving stuff to over clock. Hence when you're not gaming it'll have dropped clocks and voltages right down anyway.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:28 AM   #18
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Just change the multiplier for the time being, don't mess with the the fsb.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:57 AM   #19
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oh well yes but im still noob so will use auto OC cause it's safe 4.3-4.4 is enough for me if i run 24/7 ....



now about heatsink.... now i have Arctic Cooling Freezer i30 .... and i know that it will not be enough to hande 4.3 under safe temps so i plan to get H70 or H80 .. but i read some reviews on amazon and people wrote that Corsair coolers sometimes broke and fluid from that cooler damaged whole system ;/ so idk ... but i like Crosair brand and im wondering how stable are thies water cooling Liquid CPU Coolers ?
I have a Medicare card, and all my computer skills -- programming and so forth are stale from the 1990s. I build 'em, and I use 'em. But I lost my work-life edge. And -- I'm not an electronic or micro-chip engineer.

Point is, there are a lot of enthusiast forum posts and "stickies" or posted "guides" for every new generation of CPUs that appear. I start collecting the links or saved-PDF copies of this information several months before I order parts, and I study them. By the time I'm ready to build and over-clock a system, I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do.

Now . . . there are better coolers than those you've cited. The better ones may cost you $20, $30 or so more. This is something for which I don't allow myself to pinch pennies: If you're going to over-clock, you don't want to be limited by the thermal factor.
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:32 AM   #20
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Now . . . there are better coolers than those you've cited. The better ones may cost you $20, $30 or so more. This is something for which I don't allow myself to pinch pennies: If you're going to over-clock, you don't want to be limited by the thermal factor. "
- Overclocking, thermals etc. should imo all be about the cost benefit analysis of the situation.
Say that overclocking a chip from 4.2 to 4.5, a 7% oc, yields you a ~5% performance increase give or take in "irl" apps.
Say that the stock cooled chip does 4.2 and with better thermals does 4.5.
Say that the chip is 200$, and the better cooling is, as you say 30$ more.
- Now you're paying a 15% premium for a 5% performance increase. Just saying :-).
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #21
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so what with bus speed guys ? leave it to 126mhz or change multipiller and set bus speed to 100 mhz ? i have no idea how to change other variables


can i do that thng ? :


set overclock to auto ..... then change multipiller to 44 and bus speed to 100 mhz .... so just let "auto overclock" to manage other variables and manually just change multipiller and bus speed ya ? and also i think it would be better to don't touch voltage also and leave it at 1.3 .. i hope that will be enough for 4.4 GHZ ....



now about heatsink .... what can you recommend me guys instead my heatsink ? to keep CPU cooler ... under 60-65 altime with 4.4 GHZ
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cytg111 View Post
- Overclocking, thermals etc. should imo all be about the cost benefit analysis of the situation.
Say that overclocking a chip from 4.2 to 4.5, a 7% oc, yields you a ~5% performance increase give or take in "irl" apps.
Say that the stock cooled chip does 4.2 and with better thermals does 4.5.
Say that the chip is 200$, and the better cooling is, as you say 30$ more.
- Now you're paying a 15% premium for a 5% performance increase. Just saying :-).
The $200 cpu is not performing 5% faster because of a $30 cost-adder, your $700-$1000 computer computer system is performing 5% faster because of a $30 cost-adder.

Price/performance comparisons that focus solely on the price of a specific component are not correct, the price needs to be that of entire system just as the performance measured is the product of the entire system.

A cpu on its own may cost $200, but the performance is exactly zero if it isn't plugged into a computer system
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:07 AM   #23
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The $200 cpu is not performing 5% faster because of a $30 cost-adder, your $700-$1000 computer computer system is performing 5% faster because of a $30 cost-adder.

Price/performance comparisons that focus solely on the price of a specific component are not correct, the price needs to be that of entire system just as the performance measured is the product of the entire system.

A cpu on its own may cost $200, but the performance is exactly zero if it isn't plugged into a computer system
- argh .. cannot resist logic, true words they are.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:30 AM   #24
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stop off top please and help me guys
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Old 12-20-2012, 01:17 PM   #25
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so what with bus speed guys ? leave it to 126mhz or change multipiller and set bus speed to 100 mhz ? i have no idea how to change other variables


can i do that thng ? :


set overclock to auto ..... then change multipiller to 44 and bus speed to 100 mhz .... so just let "auto overclock" to manage other variables and manually just change multipiller and bus speed ya ? and also i think it would be better to don't touch voltage also and leave it at 1.3 .. i hope that will be enough for 4.4 GHZ ....



now about heatsink .... what can you recommend me guys instead my heatsink ? to keep CPU cooler ... under 60-65 altime with 4.4 GHZ
My suggestion it to leave the bus alone and up the multiplier. Voltage range typically should be 1.25-1.35v (I think 1.4-1.45v is pretty much max 24/7 if your cooling can handle it). You have other tweaks you might have to make such as PLL voltage.
Jacking up the FSB can lead to corrupted files and various other instabilities. Im shocked you got it as high as you have already by just upping the fsb.
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