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leeland
10-01-2010, 09:24 PM
OK I just got back from the local Auto Zone and the oil I always get isn't stocked anymore

Mobile extended 5000 mile stuff 5w-20

SO...I am taken back because I have used it for as long as I can remember and I had to pick a new oil...

I asked an attendant about some of them...and he turns to me and mentions Synthetic (which is obviously more expensive)...

I considered it since it is getting closer to winter and it would be easier on the engine starting in cold weather....

We talk a little more and he says...if you switch to Synthetic...you have to stick to it forever otherwise it does something to the engine (basically makes the engine leak oil) if I were to switch back to conventional at some point...

Something to do with the molecular make up of the oil...

Does that sounds right? I have not a clue with oil comparisons...

thescreensavers
10-01-2010, 09:28 PM
You can switch between the two when ever...

Castol GTX is great oil and its not too expensive.

punjabiplaya
10-01-2010, 09:45 PM
You can switch between the two when ever...

Castol GTX is great oil and its not too expensive.

/top gear
great for cooking too apparently

thescreensavers
10-01-2010, 11:57 PM
/top gear
great for cooking too apparently


:D

mwmorph
10-02-2010, 12:43 AM
Most of the top line synthetic oils are very close. You can feel confident going with
German Castrol Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Synpower
Mobil 1 Extended Life (15k mile)
and surprisingly Supertech Synthetic (Wal Mart brand, made by Shell)

You can switch between Synthetic and Conventional whenever, Synthetic can leak a bit more on older cars around tired, worn out seals, but its not too big a deal.

Eli
10-02-2010, 03:04 AM
Most of the top line synthetic oils are very close. You can feel confident going with
German Castrol Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Valvoline Synpower
Mobil 1 Extended Life (15k mile)
and surprisingly Supertech Synthetic (Wal Mart brand, made by Shell)

You can switch between Synthetic and Conventional whenever, Synthetic can leak a bit more on older cars around tired, worn out seals, but its not too big a deal.

This.

WhoBeDaPlaya
10-02-2010, 09:58 AM
There's Pennzoil Ultra as well, which is supposed to be even better than the venerable Platinum.
I just (~1.5 months ago) switched over to it from M1 5W20 synth and will be doing a UOA on my next oil change.

Bartman39
10-02-2010, 10:45 AM
My take on it is no should not be an issue switching back but what I have always understood is more important to stay with the same weight of oil (10-30wt, 5-20wt and such) I run Royal Purple 15-40wt in my Duramax with service interval at 10K miles and do oil analysis each change with no issues and I dont hammer it all the time but it doesnt complain when I do... :thumbsup:

But note that early steel and cast iron ringed engines did start to use oil if switched back and forth... Not a lot but did see it first hand but all newer engines use moly or chrome type rings are not affected (note the crosshatch procedure or should say honing procedure is different as well)... Only issue is the leaking as mentioned and thats is more with older engines that have been using conventional oil and switched to synthetics as they tend to clean the the varnish build up on seals and even soften gaskets...

Gibson486
10-02-2010, 10:51 AM
Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...

HarryLui
10-02-2010, 10:58 AM
Most people don't know what the different is with synthetic and conventional.

Most people don't need synthetic oil either.

WhoBeDaPlaya
10-02-2010, 10:58 AM
Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...
Best bet would be to check BITOG. Someone there has probably done a UOA on it.

Bartman39
10-02-2010, 11:01 AM
NAPA synthetic is made by Valvoline... Same stuff but is a kinda older formula but for the price a good product...

Marlin1975
10-02-2010, 01:00 PM
Pretty much any name brand oil will go a good 5000miles in most cars and most syns can do 10k+ as well. Check owners manual and many now say 7500miles on regular oil is fine.
Now if you have a turbo, tow a lot of heavy weight, air cooled, etc... then syn oil with a little sooner change will work better.

I buy what ever name brand is cheapest and meets the specs of the car/truck I am working on. Never had any engine fail due to the name brand oil used. I have broken down hundreds of motors. Only time oil caused an issue is when it had about 30k on it and was more solid then liquid.

leeland
10-03-2010, 12:50 AM
I have always used the correct Oil weight in my vehicles and used Bosch filters (which I feel comfortable with)...

In the past on an older Civic I had used Synthetic oil in the winter and it worked out well with starting and in general.

I always try to do my own oil changes as I personally don't trust the quick lube places and am too damn cheap to take it to the dealer for a change.

Is it safe to assume that either (A) this attendant was just a dumb ass and didn't know what he was talking about or (B) he was just trying to jack up sales?

Is it feasible to assume that in cold weather that a synthetic motor oil will perform better in cold weather with starting?

Also, does synthetic oil last longer than conventional oil? On our Honda Mini Van it has an 'oil' sensor that gives a percentage on the oil and indicates when it should be changed.

The manual states something every 10,000 miles or 6 months but I always go by that gauge...which obviously is variable.

Thanks,
Lee

CraigRT
10-03-2010, 12:54 AM
Anyone ever try NAPA synthetic? it's 3.29 a bottle...

It's great. Ashland product. Think Valvoline. Also great.

Marlin1975
10-03-2010, 07:53 AM
I have always used the correct Oil weight in my vehicles and used Bosch filters (which I feel comfortable with)...

In the past on an older Civic I had used Synthetic oil in the winter and it worked out well with starting and in general.

I always try to do my own oil changes as I personally don't trust the quick lube places and am too damn cheap to take it to the dealer for a change.

Is it safe to assume that either (A) this attendant was just a dumb ass and didn't know what he was talking about or (B) he was just trying to jack up sales?

Is it feasible to assume that in cold weather that a synthetic motor oil will perform better in cold weather with starting?

Also, does synthetic oil last longer than conventional oil? On our Honda Mini Van it has an 'oil' sensor that gives a percentage on the oil and indicates when it should be changed.

The manual states something every 10,000 miles or 6 months but I always go by that gauge...which obviously is variable.

Thanks,
Lee


I vote A as I doubt he gets paid anymore if you buy syn vs regular.

Syn can last longer if the car is in good running condition. If it over heats, leaks a lot, etc... then the oil probable need to be chaged early as the oil might not break down but there could be a lot of "trash" in it.
Example I do 10k (give or take) on my CTS and Corvette. My truck gets regular oil and that is 5000miles or every year.

Syn can flow better at very cold temps. But so does regular 5w30 oil. Now if you live in the North or Canada where temps get very cold then the differance would be enough to warrant using syn. But I live in VA and use regular in my truck and have no issues.

smitbret
10-03-2010, 11:35 AM
You can safely switch from conventional to synthetic at any time. However, when going from conventional to synthetic, you may get some oil consumption and burning because as an engine ages, micro grooves form on your cylinder walls. Conventional motor oil will fill those grooves and maintain a tight seal. When you switch to a slicker synthetic with more advanced detergents, those grooves get cleaned out and you're left with a (performance-wise) harmless amount of oil consumption. I often switch my cars over to a synthetic after about 80,000 miles and have had no trouble at all. The intervals for oil changes with synthetic are about 2.5 times as long.

I also switch to a lighter weight oil in the winter, cuz it flows better and quicker especially during a cold start. Heavier weights are better in the summer because contaminants like dust are held in suspension better by a heavier oil.

Moving back and forth between weights, types and brands is fine so long as you are changing the oil and filter when you do it. You may get some smoke initially, but it is normal and will not harm your car.

skyking
10-03-2010, 11:44 AM
Not a synthetic fan myself. I prefer new oil more often for the dollar but that is an opinion and you know about those.

Meghan54
10-03-2010, 03:36 PM
Our '02 Blazer, with 214K miles on it, has had syn almost exclusively since its initial oil change at 500 miles. (Started with Mobil 1, also Pennzoil Plat, and the last couple of years, Royal Purple.)

Has it prolonged its life? Maybe, maybe not....but I think it did help with a situation I faced a few months ago.

Our aforementioned Blazer had been running slightly hotter lately with poorer gas mileage. Figured was maybe the coolant leak, very minor, from the intake manifold---a common problem that's rather easily dealt with.

So, went to ATL to pick up a boat. Just after picking up the boat and hitting the interstate, the truck began exhibiting the inability to run beyond 1500 rpm's......any more then it'd act like it was choking down. Began to run a LOT hotter....over 220F. Check engine light also came on......found out later it was the MAF sensor saying low air flow.

What was supposed to be 3.5 hour drive turned into 12 hours. Guess I should have gotten a tow, but the cost of a flatbed truck for over 3 hours and 300 miles.....hated to think of that! So, I nursed it along all evening and night.

At one stop to let it cool and just to give myself a break, checked the oil. When I pulled the dipstick, I saw smoke coming from the dipstick tube. Not exactly good.

Turns out the cats were almost completely plugged....nothing that an $800 repair couldn't take care of. ;) But I do credit the RP oil for keeping itself together and now a couple of months after the fact, the engine is no worse for the ordeal.

True, an extreme example, but in this instance, it did its job. If it'd been a crankcase of dino oil during this, hate to think what would have happened.

BUTCH1
10-04-2010, 03:52 AM
Our '02 Blazer, with 214K miles on it, has had syn almost exclusively since its initial oil change at 500 miles. (Started with Mobil 1, also Pennzoil Plat, and the last couple of years, Royal Purple.)

Has it prolonged its life? Maybe, maybe not....but I think it did help with a situation I faced a few months ago.

Our aforementioned Blazer had been running slightly hotter lately with poorer gas mileage. Figured was maybe the coolant leak, very minor, from the intake manifold---a common problem that's rather easily dealt with.

So, went to ATL to pick up a boat. Just after picking up the boat and hitting the interstate, the truck began exhibiting the inability to run beyond 1500 rpm's......any more then it'd act like it was choking down. Began to run a LOT hotter....over 220F. Check engine light also came on......found out later it was the MAF sensor saying low air flow.

What was supposed to be 3.5 hour drive turned into 12 hours. Guess I should have gotten a tow, but the cost of a flatbed truck for over 3 hours and 300 miles.....hated to think of that! So, I nursed it along all evening and night.

At one stop to let it cool and just to give myself a break, checked the oil. When I pulled the dipstick, I saw smoke coming from the dipstick tube. Not exactly good.

Turns out the cats were almost completely plugged....nothing that an $800 repair couldn't take care of. ;) But I do credit the RP oil for keeping itself together and now a couple of months after the fact, the engine is no worse for the ordeal.

True, an extreme example, but in this instance, it did its job. If it'd been a crankcase of dino oil during this, hate to think what would have happened.

If it's the same intake manifold problem that GM had with some of their V6's it's not exactly minor, expect to pay $500-700 for it to be replaced and some caused coolant to leak into the engine ruining them. Fel-pro makes a replacement gasket that solves the issue if your gonna do it yourself..

soccerballtux
10-04-2010, 04:04 PM
Pretty much any name brand oil will go a good 5000miles in most cars and most syns can do 10k+ as well. Check owners manual and many now say 7500miles on regular oil is fine.
Now if you have a turbo, tow a lot of heavy weight, air cooled, etc... then syn oil with a little sooner change will work better.

I buy what ever name brand is cheapest and meets the specs of the car/truck I am working on. Never had any engine fail due to the name brand oil used. I have broken down hundreds of motors. Only time oil caused an issue is when it had about 30k on it and was more solid then liquid.

I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.

CraigRT
10-04-2010, 04:06 PM
I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.

There is a recent oil analysis on the BITOG site of a 3.5L Impala running 11.5K miles on Pennzoil conventional, and it looked perfectly fine.

Oil is not what it used to be!

WackyDan
10-05-2010, 10:51 AM
I think what most are missing here... is what is the age of the car you are driving?

Synthetic oils are noted for not playing as nice with older motors... Kinda like the whole ethanol use in older motors. The gaskets and such were not made with synthetic in mind. Now, I'm sure some of the newer synthetics are formulated for use with older motors...But it your car is ten years old, I'd stick with conventional. If your car is brand new, by all means use full synthetic.

I have a 98 Dakota... I will never run synthetic in it. Have had it since new, and it is not worth having major gasket issues by switching.

Wife has an 05 malibu. Could probably switch to Synthetic, but for her driving, probably not worth the added cost. ( I buy name brand by the gallon on sale anyway. ).

So... I think the most glaring thing you omitted here was the year of your vehicle.

Marlin1975
10-05-2010, 11:11 AM
I notice a huge difference in performance changing at 3k. No way I'm changing at 5k.


No you don;t, at least not any REAL differance.


If you put your car on a dyno with oil that has 5000miles and then change it to new I bet there be no differance.

LTC8K6
10-05-2010, 11:16 AM
I think what most are missing here... is what is the age of the car you are driving?

Synthetic oils are noted for not playing as nice with older motors... Kinda like the whole ethanol use in older motors. The gaskets and such were not made with synthetic in mind. Now, I'm sure some of the newer synthetics are formulated for use with older motors...But it your car is ten years old, I'd stick with conventional. If your car is brand new, by all means use full synthetic.

I have a 98 Dakota... I will never run synthetic in it. Have had it since new, and it is not worth having major gasket issues by switching.

Wife has an 05 malibu. Could probably switch to Synthetic, but for her driving, probably not worth the added cost. ( I buy name brand by the gallon on sale anyway. ).

So... I think the most glaring thing you omitted here was the year of your vehicle.

You 1998 Dakota should be fine with synthetic oil though. It was popular by then, iirc.

WhoBeDaPlaya
10-05-2010, 11:42 AM
There is a recent oil analysis on the BITOG site of a 3.5L Impala running 11.5K miles on Pennzoil conventional, and it looked perfectly fine.
Oil is not what it used to be!
Over what duration though, that's the key. 11.5k / year is probably waaay better than 2k / year.

CraigRT
10-05-2010, 11:43 AM
I think what most are missing here... is what is the age of the car you are driving?

Synthetic oils are noted for not playing as nice with older motors... Kinda like the whole ethanol use in older motors. The gaskets and such were not made with synthetic in mind. Now, I'm sure some of the newer synthetics are formulated for use with older motors...But it your car is ten years old, I'd stick with conventional. If your car is brand new, by all means use full synthetic.

I have a 98 Dakota... I will never run synthetic in it. Have had it since new, and it is not worth having major gasket issues by switching.

Wife has an 05 malibu. Could probably switch to Synthetic, but for her driving, probably not worth the added cost. ( I buy name brand by the gallon on sale anyway. ).

So... I think the most glaring thing you omitted here was the year of your vehicle.

My 96 Saturn has been off and on synthetic for the last 30k... I haven't noticed any problems and your Dak shouldn't either..

CraigRT
10-05-2010, 11:45 AM
Over what duration though, that's the key. 11.5k / year is probably waaay better than 2k / year.

Ideal conditions...

But the fact some people are scared of going even upto 5k on conventional, and someone goes almost 12, and has proof that the oil was still not completely spent.. It says a lot about modern lubricants.

desy
10-05-2010, 11:57 AM
I go 18k on synth and change once a yr
07 Versa

WackyDan
10-05-2010, 01:04 PM
My 96 Saturn has been off and on synthetic for the last 30k... I haven't noticed any problems and your Dak shouldn't either..

The engine in my Dakota was designed in the late 50's early 60's... and while Dodge/Chrysler certainly updated it over the years, I'm not apt to toss synthetic in there.

The engine in your saturn on the other hand was brought to market in the 90's most likely.

WackyDan
10-05-2010, 01:07 PM
You 1998 Dakota should be fine with synthetic oil though. It was popular by then, iirc.

With the current newer crop of synthetics, probably would be fine... But not then. There have been numerous reports on older engine designs specifically the gaskets/seals that didn't not deal well with the early synthetics... some synthetics of which are still on the market.

LTC8K6
10-05-2010, 01:10 PM
http://www.allpar.com/cars/stories/shatto.php

632,000 mile 98 Dakota on Amsoil and long intervals.

Don't know which engine you have though. But it probably has the same sort of seals and gaskets.

Throckmorton
10-05-2010, 03:06 PM
Does overheating shorten the interval? I use Mobil 1, but my Jeep XJ has overheated quite a few times-- going up to 260F. How much does that affect the oil life?

Marlin1975
10-05-2010, 03:09 PM
Does overheating shorten the interval? I use Mobil 1, but my Jeep XJ has overheated quite a few times-- going up to 260F. How much does that affect the oil life?


Go to the oil companys web site and they usually have the temps the oil will flash at. Syn does better in higger temps. Its best to not obver heat but a syn oil usually will do better then a lot of Regular oils. But many regular oils today get close to Syn specs in some cases.

Throckmorton
10-05-2010, 03:49 PM
Looks like the flash point is 471F http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f10/mobil-1-10w-30-vs-5w-30-flash-point-advantage-28729/

I don't know how that relates to breaking down

WackyDan
10-05-2010, 04:06 PM
http://www.allpar.com/cars/stories/shatto.php

632,000 mile 98 Dakota on Amsoil and long intervals.

Don't know which engine you have though. But it probably has the same sort of seals and gaskets.

Great, except that he modified the oil delivery/filtration system, and upped oil capacity. That certainly played a part in the longevity.

LTC8K6
10-05-2010, 04:31 PM
Great, except that he modified the oil delivery/filtration system, and upped oil capacity. That certainly played a part in the longevity.

But would have little to do with Chrysler's 1998 gaskets and seals... :D

WackyDan
10-05-2010, 05:06 PM
But would have little to do with Chrysler's 1998 gaskets and seals... :D

Except that he also doesn't address whether the motor was leaking or not... ;P

fleshconsumed
10-19-2010, 12:22 PM
I'd like to resurrect this thread. I've got 2005 Altima 2.5 with QR25DE I4 engine and about 36K miles on it. It's time for an oil change and I'm thinking about 1) doing my own oil changes from now on, never done it myself before, and 2) switching to synthetic. Main reasons are better starts in winter time and because I could probably get away with 2 or 3 oil changes a year depending on how much I drive. I've read the thread and everybody says it's safe to do, but I'm still extremely nervous about doing it. Is 36 K miles going to be a problem before switching to synthetic? Any issues with nissan engines? Can I still use regular oil filter I've always used before? And any recommendations for inexpensive oil? I do not want to buy super expensive "high performance" synthetic oil, but something good for the money? I've seen some kind of Valvoline synthetic oil at local walmart at $25 for 5 quarts of 5W30, would that do? Or would Supertech Synthetic (walmart branded) or Napa recommendations from the first page work better?

skyking
10-19-2010, 12:38 PM
I saw 3.50 synthetic on sale this week at Schucks/O'Riellys aroung here, the O'rielly brand. I have dug around and can't find anything bad about the oil. Limit 24

CraigRT
10-19-2010, 01:39 PM
I'd like to resurrect this thread. I've got 2005 Altima 2.5 with QR25DE I4 engine and about 36K miles on it. It's time for an oil change and I'm thinking about 1) doing my own oil changes from now on, never done it myself before, and 2) switching to synthetic. Main reasons are better starts in winter time and because I could probably get away with 2 or 3 oil changes a year depending on how much I drive. I've read the thread and everybody says it's safe to do, but I'm still extremely nervous about doing it. Is 36 K miles going to be a problem before switching to synthetic? Any issues with nissan engines? Can I still use regular oil filter I've always used before? And any recommendations for inexpensive oil? I do not want to buy super expensive "high performance" synthetic oil, but something good for the money? I've seen some kind of Valvoline synthetic oil at local walmart at $25 for 5 quarts of 5W30, would that do? Or would Supertech Synthetic (walmart branded) or Napa recommendations from the first page work better?

All I have to say to you is, you are way overthinking this.
I use synthetic sometimes in my VQ35 (Nissan Maxima) and often also conventional. Just pick and oil that meets the grade and use it.

The Napa made oil is quality, as it is made by the same people who make Valvoline. Nissan engines (at least the VQ series) like Valvoline products.

BUTCH1
10-19-2010, 08:59 PM
Over what duration though, that's the key. 11.5k / year is probably waaay better than 2k / year.

I have the 3.5 in my Malibu, these engines are really easy on oil, low compression, moderate output, pushrod design..

IcePickFreak
10-19-2010, 11:44 PM
I wouldn't really worry much about switching between conventional and synthetic unless the vehicle is pretty old or high mileage. Like mwmorph said, synthetic will leak a bit easier than conventional is the motor/seals are old and tired.

I'm right around 8000 miles on Mobil 1 Synthetic on my G8 GT (5w-30w). The OLM currently reads 18% oil life remaining. I'm changing oil tomorrow and sending a sample off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I still need to pick up the oil so I've been contemplating switching to the German Castro Syntech 0w-30w for the winter and sending that to Blackstone as well on the next oil change to see what they come up with.

CraigRT
10-20-2010, 05:43 PM
I wouldn't really worry much about switching between conventional and synthetic unless the vehicle is pretty old or high mileage. Like mwmorph said, synthetic will leak a bit easier than conventional is the motor/seals are old and tired.

I'm right around 8000 miles on Mobil 1 Synthetic on my G8 GT (5w-30w). The OLM currently reads 18% oil life remaining. I'm changing oil tomorrow and sending a sample off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I still need to pick up the oil so I've been contemplating switching to the German Castro Syntech 0w-30w for the winter and sending that to Blackstone as well on the next oil change to see what they come up with.

Must get pricey putting synthetic into a G8 GT!
That thing has like an 8 or 9 quart sump doesn't it?
I think that car would love 0w30 Syntec. Great oil.

thescreensavers
10-20-2010, 08:02 PM
You guys know that syntec M1 Pp are highly refined oils they are not trurely synthetics. So if you say you run syntec you are just running 80% highly refined oil with 20% POA additives. It runs well in my engine and is only 30 bucks with a good filter

sdifox
10-20-2010, 09:09 PM
You guys know that syntec M1 Pp are highly refined oils they are not trurely synthetics. So if you say you run syntec you are just running 80% highly refined oil with 20% POA additives. It runs well in my engine and is only 30 bucks with a good filter

I run this

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/e_1856.html


Viscosity class : 5W-40
Density at 15 °C : 0.850 g/cm³
Viscosity at 40 °C : 86 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100 °C : 14.1 mm²/s
Viscosity index : 170
Flash point : 222 °C
Pour point : -45 °C
ASTM colour : 3,5
Ash, sulphate : 1.2 g/100 g

IcePickFreak
10-20-2010, 11:39 PM
Must get pricey putting synthetic into a G8 GT!
That thing has like an 8 or 9 quart sump doesn't it?
I think that car would love 0w30 Syntec. Great oil.

Came out to just under $99 for the oil (went with 0w-30 Castrol) and filter, it holds 8.8qts but I picked up an even 10. I thought I still had a filter but hell if I know where I put it, surely someplace I wouldn't forget.

It's not really too bad because it was actually 8,821 miles that I had on it since the last change and the old oil still wasn't completely black. I did have to add some oil during that time, approximately 1/4qt, but that's pretty much what I pulled out of the catch can - hence why I grabbed 10qts just to have some extra on hand.

CraigRT
10-21-2010, 06:55 PM
Came out to just under $99 for the oil (went with 0w-30 Castrol) and filter, it holds 8.8qts but I picked up an even 10. I thought I still had a filter but hell if I know where I put it, surely someplace I wouldn't forget.

It's not really too bad because it was actually 8,821 miles that I had on it since the last change and the old oil still wasn't completely black. I did have to add some oil during that time, approximately 1/4qt, but that's pretty much what I pulled out of the catch can - hence why I grabbed 10qts just to have some extra on hand.

That's cool.
Many people would agree that going farther on a car with a massive sump such as yours, is no big deal. I would say you could probably do 10K on the German Castrol, if not more.
I wish my Nissan had a sump that big. It burns oil so it would be nice to not have to worry if its running on 3L instead of its max of 4. :P

Throckmorton
10-21-2010, 09:54 PM
I'm going to get an oil analysis. I ordered a kit from Blackstone.

I changed my filter last weekend to try to fix my leak, so I poured oil out from the old filter. Hopefully it comes out to the 3.5oz they need... I really want to see how well Mobil 1 does after 4000 miles, with several overheatings, and a lot of stop and go.

Throckmorton
10-21-2010, 09:55 PM
You guys know that syntec M1 Pp are highly refined oils they are not trurely synthetics. So if you say you run syntec you are just running 80% highly refined oil with 20% POA additives. It runs well in my engine and is only 30 bucks with a good filter

I've read that Mobil 1 is real synthetic, made from ethanol or something.

thescreensavers
10-22-2010, 01:00 AM
^ M1 used to be made with much more synthetic properties to it, but they said hey why do Castrol and Penzoil make oil mostly with Highly refined oil and get to call their's Fully synthetic. So they changed their formula.

HarryLui
10-22-2010, 01:02 AM
^ M1 used to be made with much more synthetic properties to it, but they said hey why do Castrol and Penzoil make oil mostly with Highly refined oil and get to call their's Fully synthetic. So they changed their formula.

Plus, charge the customers MORE for it.

Throckmorton
10-22-2010, 02:10 AM
Apparently Mobil 1 "Advanced Fuel Economy" is the old formula http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_FAQs.aspx#FAQs6

Edit: Oh wait, I think they mean they added the "AFE" to the name in 2008

Haven't you been offering Mobil 1 0W-20 and Mobil 1 0W-30 already? What's different about Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy?
They are the same formulations as the products marketed prior to 2008. As the importance of fuel economy has increased, we felt it was important to communicate to consumers which products in the Mobil 1 family offer the greatest potential for improved fuel economy. Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oils are engineered to deliver outstanding engine protection while improving fuel economy.

fleshconsumed
10-25-2010, 04:13 PM
Well, I changed oil this weekend. Got Valvoline SynPower on sale at $21/5qt from Walmart (how timely). The change itself was stupidly easy, albeit very very messy. Spilled some oil while unscrewing filter and pouring used oil from a pan back into container to recycle later. I think I'll invest in an aluminum 2x6 feet tray to put under the actual pan in case of future mini spills. Spent probably an hour altogether but it should be faster next time.

Two questions:
1. Isn't oil drain plug supposed to have some kind of shim, metal, rubber, or otherwise? There wasn't any on mine.
2. How tight are you supposed to tighten the oil filter? Some page I googled said tighten it by hand as much as possible and then turn 2/3rds of a revolution with a wrench. That's what I did, but I'm wondering if that's right or if there is a specific torque for the filter?

Howard
10-25-2010, 04:27 PM
Hand tight is good enough. Remember to lube the gasket all around with fresh oil.

As for the washer, some plugs use a crush washer, some have a rubber gasket bonded underneath the head of the screw.

thescreensavers
10-25-2010, 04:39 PM
For the oil filter yea, just hand tight.

For the drain plug I first use my fingers to finger tight Then I give it a good tighten with my 14mm wrench. My car has a crush washer which I changed once and never again..

Just be careful to not cross thread.


The oil does not even come out until the last few threads of my bolt any how. I just apply pressure while unscrewing and then quickly pull away when its loose.

My oil filter is located directly above my drain plug, so I just unscrew it a little bit after the oil is done draining. And it will drain some more out from the filter area. Then when thats done I just remove the old one and install the new one. No spill nada.

Meghan54
10-26-2010, 10:03 AM
^ M1 used to be made with much more synthetic properties to it, but they said hey why do Castrol and Penzoil make oil mostly with Highly refined oil and get to call their's Fully synthetic. So they changed their formula.


In fact, I believe Mobil 1's change came after Mobil 1 took Castrol and Pennzoil to court (in 1999 if I remember correctly) about the latter calling their oils synthetic despite using Group III bases while Mobil 1 used a Group IV base. When Castrol/Pennzoil won the case, Mobil 1 moved to a Group III base.

CraigRT
10-26-2010, 10:26 PM
In fact, I believe Mobil 1's change came after Mobil 1 took Castrol and Pennzoil to court (in 1999 if I remember correctly) about the latter calling their oils synthetic despite using Group III bases while Mobil 1 used a Group IV base. When Castrol/Pennzoil won the case, Mobil 1 moved to a Group III base.

Some oils like their 0w oils I believe are a group IV, but I don't know if that has changed or not.

Throckmorton
10-27-2010, 05:11 AM
Mobil 1 did a Q&A with bobistheoilguy forums.

Guess what. They didn't answer the questions about whether their oil is synthetic or not.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89:mobil-1-qaa&catid=35:content


Note that we are unable to answer the following questions, as they would require discussion about our proprietary formulations; however, rest assured that Mobil 1 is rigorously tested in real-world conditions, designed to be an all-around synthetic motor oil, and is balanced among the key performance attributes for ultimate protection. The questions included:
Is the newest version of Mobil 1 15W50 a PAO/ester based oil (grp IV/V),or is it a grp III hydrocracked based oil? Is there any difference between the newest label version and the previous silver cap version?
...
Group III or Group IV/V base stock this is as well an ongoing debate, and a debate that wields a double edge sword so to speak. I hope you can/will shed light on this subject ending this debate once and for-all !! I see nice M1 prices while shopping for oils, at Walmart M1 is now one of the cheaper synthetics as well at many other retail stores it can be said M1 is one of the cheaper priced synthetics off the shelf which is great.. so just by this alone I have come to the conclusion that M1 is group III which I find nothing wrong with, and please if you can explain in depth the use of group III oil in this soon to be sticky it would be outstanding to have two oil manufactures back to back showing information on the use of group III for base stock verses just purchasing oil deeming it by base stock group.

Throckmorton
10-27-2010, 05:19 AM
According to Valvoline their SynPower oil has "4x better wear protection" than Mobil 1
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/9757-oil-debate-mineral-oil-group-iii-pao-oil-group-iv.html